Fine Watches

Dial: white Caliber: cal. 78-1 mechanical, 17 jewels Case: 18k yellow gold, case back secured by four screws Case number: 22’088, 780’930’935 Closure: 18k yellow gold Cartier buckle Size: 27.5 mm x 20 mm Signed: case, dial and movement Box: no Papers: no Accessories: Cartier pouch

View 1 of Lot 417: Tank Normale | A yellow gold wristwatch, Circa 1985

tank normale | a yellow gold wristwatch, circa 1985

Important Watches

Cartier, London Tank Normale A yellow gold rectangular wristwatch with original gold deployant buckle, Circa 1963-64 Dial: cream dial signed Cartier, stretched radial Roman numerals, blued steel epée hands Calibre: 9½’’’ circular Jaeger-LeCoultre calibre K838 movement signed Cartier Inc., damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, 18 jewels, annular balance with poising screws, flat hairspring, adjusted to temperatures and three positions Movement number: numbered to back of main plate 1'449'973 Case: 18k yellow gold case, gold screw-set lug bars, gold case back secured by 4 screws to case sides, multi-faceted crown with faceted sapphire setting Case number: outside case back with presentation engraving ‘To One Francis from Another - Happy Birthday - 19.3.67’, inside case top etched London Subsidiary Stock numbered • 9642 •, inside case back with London hallmarks, date letter ‘h’ for 1963-64, [JC] Jacques Cartier punch mark and hand stamped numbers • 9642 • Closure: black unsigned leather strap and 18k gold Cartier deployant buckle with London hallmarks, date letter ‘h’ for 1963-64, [JC] Jacques Cartier punch mark and hand stamped numbers 0‘680 Size: 30.5 mm length x 22 mm width Accessories: Cartier presentation box and travelling pouch This watch has a London Reference No. 6732.

View 1 of Lot 2382: Tank Normale | A yellow gold rectangular wristwatch with original gold deployant buckle, Circa 1963-64 

tank normale | a yellow gold rectangular wristwatch with original gold deployant buckle, circa 1963-64

Dial: eggshell Caliber: cal. P838 mechanical, 18 jewels Movement number: 1’758’129 Case: 18k yellow gold, case back secured by screws Case number: 49’015, 020’446 Size: 30.5 x 22.5 mm Signed: case, dial, and movement Box: no Papers: no

View 1 of Lot 71: Tank Normale | A yellow gold wristwatch, Circa 1965

tank normale | a yellow gold wristwatch, circa 1965

Fine Jewels & Watches

Dial: white Calibre: cal. 2512 manual winding, 17 jewels Case: 18k yellow gold, case back secured by 4 screws Case number: 780'920'801 Closure: 18k yellow gold Cartier deployant clasp Size: 22.5 x 29.5 mm (width x lenght) Signed: case, dial and movement Box: no Papers: no Accessories: associated presentation case Please note the leather strap derived from endangered species is for display purposes only and is not sold with the watch. The watch will be shipped without strap. Please note that the movement has not been tested for the accuracy of time and may need a service at the buyer's expense. Sotheby's does not guarantee the future working of the movement and we do not guarantee the authenticity of any individual component parts since subsequent repairs and restoration work may have resulted in the replacement of original parts. You are advised that watch straps or bands made of materials derived from endangered or otherwise protected species (i.e. alligator or crocodile) are not sold with the watch and we reserve the right to remove these straps or bands prior to shipping. Furthermore, the watch may not come with its original manufacturers strap or band. Si prega di notare che il cinturino in pelle proveniente da specie in via di estinzione non è venduto con l'orologio, è usato a solo scopo espositivo. L'orologio verrà spedito senza cinturino. Si prega di notare che il movimento non è stato testato per verificare la precisione dell'ora e potrebbe necessitare di una revisione a spese dell'acquirente. Sotheby's non garantisce il funzionamento del movimento in futuro e non garantisce l'autenticità dei singoli componenti poiché successive riparazioni o restauri potrebbero aver comportato la sostituzione delle parti originali. Si informa che i cinturini per orologi realizzati con materiali derivati da specie in via di estinzione o altrimenti protette (ad esempio alligatore o coccodrillo) non sono venduti con l'orologio e ci riserviamo il diritto di rimuovere questi cinturini prima della spedizione. Inoltre, l'orologio potrebbe non essere spedito con il cinturino originale della casa produttrice.

View 1 of Lot 202: Tank Normale, Reference 78092 | A yellow gold wristwatch | Circa 1970

tank normale, reference 78092 | a yellow gold wristwatch | circa 1970

Important Watches: Part II

Dial: white Calibre: cal. 78-1 manual winding, 17 jewels Case: 18k white gold, case back secured by 4 screws Case number: 789'921'211 Closure: 18k white gold Cartier deployant clasp Size: 22 x 30 mm (width x length including lugs) Signed: case, dial and movement Box: no Papers: no Accessories: Cartier travel case Please note the leather strap derived from endangered species is for display purposes only and is not sold with the watch. The watch will be shipped with a Sotheby’s branded calf leather strap.

View 1 of Lot 298: Tank Normale, Reference 78992 | A white gold wristwatch | Circa 1980

tank normale, reference 78992 | a white gold wristwatch | circa 1980

Cartier, London Tank Normale A yellow gold rectangular wristwatch with red numerals, Circa 1967-68 Dial: cream dial signed Cartier in red text, red stretched radial Roman numerals, blued steel epée hands Calibre: 9’’’ circular LeCoultre calibre K821 movement signed Cartier, damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, 18 jewels, annular balance with poising screws, flat hairspring, adjusted to temperatures and three positions Movement number: numbered to back of main plate 1'665'952 Case: 18k yellow gold case, gold screw-set lug bars, gold case back secured by 4 screws to case sides, sapphire cabochon-set beaded crown Case number: case top interior with hand etched numbers • 10688 •, outside case back with hand stamped London Stock numbers • 10688 • and London Reference No. 7716, inside case back with London hallmarks, date letter ‘m’ for 1967-68, [JC] Jacques Cartier punch mark and hand stamped numbers • 10688 • Closure: black unsigned leather strap and 18k gold Cartier deployant buckle with London hallmarks, date letter ‘m’ for 1967-68, [JC] Jacques Cartier punch mark and hand stamped numbers 1'494 Size: 31 mm length x 22.5 mm width Accessories: Cartier presentation box and travelling pouch This watch with its unusual red numerals is believed to be from a group of ten specially commissioned Tank Normale wristwatches with red numerals comprising 5 ladies’ and 5 gentlemen’s examples that were intended as gifts for the commissioner’s close friends and family. The use of red numerals is unusual to find in vintage Cartier watches. Interestingly red- or burgundy-coloured numerals would later be used by Cartier within some of their anniversary models. In 1979 the groups which owned the Paris, London and New York branches of Cartier were merged to bring all three companies together under a single entity, named ‘Cartier World’. To celebrate this event, Cartier released a series of limited-edition wristwatch models. Made in platinum, the models included the Baignoire, Ellipse, Santos, Tank LC, Tortue and Vendôme. In addition to their platinum cases, the watches had specially made dials with burgundy-coloured Roman numerals and ruby cabochon-set crowns. The use of burgundy numerals and ruby cabochons would be repeated with further, limited series of platinum watches released to mark other significant occasions at Cartier in the succeeding years. In 1997, Cartier produced a limited series of watches with red numerals to celebrate their 100th anniversary at Place Vendôme in Paris.

View 1 of Lot 2385: Tank Normale | A yellow gold rectangular wristwatch with red numerals, Circa 1967-68 

tank normale | a yellow gold rectangular wristwatch with red numerals, circa 1967-68

Cartier, Paris London retailed Tank Normale A rectangular platinum lady’s wristwatch, Circa 1931 Dial: cream dial signed Cartier, stretched radial Roman numerals, blued steel épée hands Calibre: 8’’’ LeCoultre circular movement signed European Watch and Clock Co. Inc., damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, 19 jewels, bi-metallic compensation balance with timing and poising screws, adjusted to temperature and 2 positions, Breguet hairspring Movement number: beneath dial 27’456 and 5 Case: platinum rectangular case with polished finish Case number: outside case back hand stamped 27’456, 28’158, • 5407 •, interior of case back hand stamped 28’158, • 5407 • Closure: red unsigned leather strap and 18k pink gold deployant buckle Size: 27.5 mm length x 20 mm width Accessories: none Commercially introduced in 1919, the Tank Normale is the original and first Tank wristwatch case design. Inspired by the British Mark I tank which had first appeared at the Battle of the Somme in 1916, Louis Cartier designed the Tank wristwatch in 1917, coincidentally the same year that Cartier opened their flagship U.S. headquarters at 653 Fifth Avenue in New York. At the time of its introduction, the wristwatch was still a relatively novel item and not yet widely adopted by men. However, the perception of the wristwatch as predominantly a jewellery item for ladies was challenged by its indispensability to soldiers in the trenches of the First World War. While many believed the wristwatch to be a passing fad, Louis Cartier was convinced of the commercial potential of the wristwatch. During the 1910s, the majority of wristwatches remained little more than adaptations of the traditional pocket watch, with circular cases, white enamel dials and simple wire-form lugs from which to strap the watch to the wrist. By contrast, the Tank, like the Santos before it, was designed solely with the wrist in mind. Given the reluctance of men to adopt the wristwatch, it is perhaps less surprising that Louis Cartier should choose the tank as his inspiration, a strong and radical new military machine that looked to the future. As well as creating a beautiful new wristwatch model, all elements of the Cartier Tank were designed with practicality in mind. The watches used refined, slim and small movement calibres that were designed to Louis Cartier’s specification by Edmond Jaeger and made exclusively by LeCoultre, Switzerland. Rather than enamel, the use of thin silver dials ensured the depth of the slim movements, and thereby the overall slender proportions of the watch, were not compromised. The cabochon sapphire-set winding crown acted as a nod to the heritage of Cartier as first and foremost a jewellery brand. The elongated brancard case sides that turn the Tank from a square to a rectangle also formed defined lugs which accommodated strong, removable, screw-set bars to support the wrist strap.

View 1 of Lot 2479: London retailed | Tank Normale | A rectangular platinum lady’s wristwatch, Circa 1931

london retailed | tank normale | a rectangular platinum lady’s wristwatch, circa 1931

Important Watches: Part I

Dial: silvered Calibre: cal. EW&CCo manual winding, 18 jewels Case: platinum, 18k yellow gold case back secured by 4 screws Case number: 16'091, 23'721 Closure: 18 yellow gold Cartier deployant clasp Size: 22.5 x 30.5 mm (width x length) Signed: dial signed Cartier and movement signed European Watch and Clock Co. Box: no Papers: no Accessories: Cartier travel case Please note the leather strap derived from endangered species is for display purposes only and is not sold with the watch. The watch will be shipped with a Sotheby’s branded calf leather strap.

View 1 of Lot 123: Tank Normale | A platinum and yellow gold wristwatch | Circa 1920

tank normale | a platinum and yellow gold wristwatch | circa 1920

Dial: cream dial signed Cartier, stretched radial Roman numerals, inner chemin-de-fer minute track, blued steel epée hands

Dial: cream dial signed Cartier, stretched radial Roman numerals, inner chemin-de-fer minute track, blued steel epée hands Movement: 9’’’ circular LeCoultre calibre movement signed European Watch & Clock Co. Inc., damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, 18 jewels, bi-metallic compensation balance with timing and poising screws, flat hairspring, adjusted to temperatures and two positions Movement number: 486’168 Case: 9k yellow gold polished case, gold screw-set lug bars, gold case back secured by 4 screws to case sides, cabochon sapphire-set beaded crown, inside case top hand stamped • 7284 •, inside case back with London hallmarks, date letter ‘P’ for 1950-51, [JC] Jacques Cartier punch mark and hand stamped numbers • 7284 •, 486168 Case number: London Reference/Stock No. • 7284 • Closure: 18k gold Cartier deployant buckle with London hallmarks, date letter ‘U’ for 1955-56, [JC] Jacques Cartier punch mark and hand stamped numbers 0264 Size: 23 x 31 mm (width x length including lugs) Box: yes Papers: no Accessories: Cartier presentation box

View 1 of Lot 50: Tank Normale | A rare 9k yellow gold rectangular wristwatch with gold deployant buckle | Made in 1950-51

tank normale | a rare 9k yellow gold rectangular wristwatch with gold deployant buckle | made in 1950-51

Dial: silvered Caliber: cal. 070 mechanical, 21 jewels Case: 18k yellow gold, case back secured by four screws Case number: 119/200 Closure: 18k yellow gold Cartier buckle Size: 32.6 x 25.7 mm Signed: case, dial and movement Box: yes Papers: yes Accessories: Cartier presentation box with outer packaging, Certificate and Guarantee booklet (open), Certificate of Origin (open), International Limited Warranty card confirming the individual numbering of the piece as 119/200 and dated September 28th, 2023, Operating Instructions booklet, bi-fold, polishing cloth, and loupe

View 1 of Lot 51: Reference WGTA0108 Tank Normale 'Cartier Privé' | A limited edition yellow gold wristwatch, Circa 2023

reference wgta0108 tank normale 'cartier privé' | a limited edition yellow gold wristwatch, circa 2023

Tank Normale, London A yellow gold wristwatch, Circa 1969 Dial: white Caliber: Jaeger-LeCoultre mechanical Movement number: 1’828’729 Case: 18k yellow gold, case back secured by four screws Closure: 18k yellow gold Cartier folding clasp with London hallmark signed JC Case number: 8’573 Size: 25 mm x 31 mm Signed: dial, case and clasp signed by Cartier; movement signed by Jaeger-LeCoultre Box: no Papers: no Accessories: Cartier service letter dated 2022 and travel pouch

View 1 of Lot 408: Tank Normale London | A yellow gold wristwatch, Circa 1969

tank normale london | a yellow gold wristwatch, circa 1969

Cartier, Paris Tank Normale An early yellow gold rectangular wristwatch, Circa 1920 Dial: silvered dial signed Cartier France, stretched radial Roman numerals, inner chemin-de-fer minute ring, blued steel Breguet hands Calibre: 9½’’’ circular LeCoultre calibre signed Cartier Paris, Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, 18 jewels, bi-metallic compensation balance with timing and poising screws, flat hairspring, 8 adjustments Movement number: numbered beneath dial 14'512, 4 Case: 18k yellow gold square, polished upper body, gold screw-set lug bars, case secured by 4 screws to case sides, ogival cabochon sapphire-set beaded crown Case number: outside case back with hand stamped Paris Reference No. 11'947, 8'946 and rubbed French eagle’s head control mark in hexagonal cartouche, inside case back hand stamped 8'946 and with Edmond Jaeger punch mark Closure: black unsigned leather strap and early 18k gold deployant buckle with D-form clasp, stamped BTE S.G.D.G. (Breveté sans garantie du Gouvernment) and with French eagle’s head control mark in hexagonal cartouche Size: 30 mm length x 22 mm width Accessories: none Commercially introduced in 1919, the Tank Normale is the original and first Tank wristwatch case design. Inspired by the British Mark I tank which had first appeared at the Battle of the Somme in 1916, Louis Cartier designed the Tank wristwatch in 1917, coincidentally the same year that Cartier opened their flagship U.S. headquarters at 653 Fifth Avenue in New York. The Cartier Tank Normale shown here has an early D-form deployant buckle that is stamped with the French eagle’s head control mark in a hexagonal cartouche - this form of the eagle’s head stamp was introduced in 1919. Commercially introduced in 1919, the Tank Normale is the original and first Tank wristwatch case design.

View 1 of Lot 2379: Tank Normale | An early yellow gold rectangular wristwatch, Circa 1920 

tank normale | an early yellow gold rectangular wristwatch, circa 1920

Important Watches Including the Gunter Sachs Cartier Portico Mystery Clock and the Mercedes Gleitze Rolex Oyster 

Dial: silvered Calibre: cal. 21 manual winding, 17 jewels Case: platinum, case back secured by 4 screws Case number: 20’244, 10’720 Closure: platinum grain de riz Cartier bracelet and 18k pink gold folding clasp Size: 23 x 31 mm (width x length) Signed: case,dial and movement Box: no Papers: no Accessories: none

View 1 of Lot 131: Tank Normale | A platinum wristwatch with bracelet | Circa 1930

tank normale | a platinum wristwatch with bracelet | circa 1930

Cartier Tank Normale A yellow gold wristwatch Circa 1919 Dial: white Calibre: manual winding, 19 jewels Case: 18k yellow gold, case back secured by 4 screws Case number: 11'910, 18'340 Closure: 18k yellow gold Cartier deployant clasp Size: 24.5 mm diameter Signed: case and dial, movement signed E. W. & C Co. Inc. Box: no Papers: no Accessories: none Please note the leather strap derived from endangered species is for display purposes only and is not sold with the watch. The watch will be shipped with a Sotheby’s branded calf leather strap.

View 1 of Lot 441: Tank Normale | A yellow gold wristwatch | Circa 1919

tank normale | a yellow gold wristwatch | circa 1919

Cartier, Paris Tank Normale, Émail Bleu A yellow gold rectangular wristwatch with blue champlevé enamel brancards, Circa 1961 Dial: cream dial signed Cartier, stretched radial Roman numerals, inner chemin-de-fer minute track, blued steel Breguet hands Calibre: 9 ¼’’’ circular Jaeger-LeCoultre calibre K821 movement signed Cartier Inc., damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, 18 jewels, annular balance with poising screws, flat hairspring, adjusted to temperatures and three positions Movement number: numbered to back of main plate 1'375'623 Case: 18k yellow gold case, gold screw-set lug bars, gold case back secured by 4 screws to case sides, multi-faceted crown with faceted sapphire setting, the front of the brancards infilled with blue champlevé enamel Case number: outside case back with French eagle’s head assay mark, Edmond Jaeger punch mark and hand stamped Paris Reference numbers 43'739 and faintly 015'665, inside case back with hand stamped numbers 43'739 Closure: dark blue unsigned leather strap and 18k gold Cartier deployant buckle with French eagle’s head assay mark, Edmond Jaeger punch mark and hand stamped numbers 16'945 Size: 30 mm length x 22 mm width Accessories: none A rare decorative version of the Tank Normale, the brancards of the case are filled with dark blue enamel. Examples of the Tank Normale with enamel banding to their brancards are scarce and had first made an appearance in the early 1920s. Adding bold accenting that accentuates the stretch of the brancards, the rich blue enamel also compliments the blued finish of the hands and the blue sapphire-set crown.

View 1 of Lot 2380: Tank Normale, Émail Bleu | A yellow gold rectangular wristwatch with blue champlevé enamel brancards, Circa 1961 

tank normale, émail bleu | a yellow gold rectangular wristwatch with blue champlevé enamel brancards, circa 1961

Dial: white Caliber: cal. 2512 mechanical, 17 jewels Movement number: top of the movement stamped 67 Case: 18k yellow gold, case back secured by four screws Case number: 0'078 Closure: 18k yellow and pink gold deployant buckle, stamped 750 and BC in cartouches, and engraved 18k Cartier Size: 28 x 20 mm Signed: case, dial and movement Box: no Papers: no

View 1 of Lot 691: Reference 78093 Tank Normale | New York retailed: A yellow gold wristwatch with Paris dial, Circa 1970

reference 78093 tank normale | new york retailed: a yellow gold wristwatch with paris dial, circa 1970

Dial: white Caliber: quartz, 9 jewels Case: 18k yellow gold, case back secured by four screws Case number: 810'780'178 Closure: 18k yellow gold Cartier folding clasp Size: 23mm x 23mm Signed: case, dial, and movement Box: no Papers: no

View 1 of Lot 693: Tank Normale | a yellow gold wristwatch, Circa 1990

tank normale | a yellow gold wristwatch, circa 1990

Dial: silvered Caliber: cal. 070 mechanical, 21 jewels Case: platinum, case back secured by four screws Case number: no. 016/200, 4459 Closure: platinum Cartier buckle Size: 32.6 x 25.7 mm Signed: case, dial and movement Box: yes Papers: yes Accessories: Cartier presentation box with outer packaging, Certificate of Origin confirming the individual numbering of the piece as 016/200, International Limited Warranty card dated April 29th, 2024, Certificate and Guarantee booklet (open), Operating Instructions booklet, bi-fold, polishing cloth, and loupe

View 1 of Lot 49: Reference WGTA0109 Tank Normale 'Cartier Privé' | A limited edition platinum wristwatch, numbered 16 out of 200 pieces, Circa 2024

reference wgta0109 tank normale 'cartier privé' | a limited edition platinum wristwatch, numbered 16 out of 200 pieces, circa 2024

Dial: matte white dial signed Cartier France, stretched radial black Roman numerals, inner minute markers, blued steel epée hands

Dial: matte white dial signed Cartier France, stretched radial black Roman numerals, inner minute markers, blued steel epée hands Caliber: 10’’’ circular LeCoultre calibre signed E. W. & C. Co. Inc. for the European Watch and Clock Co. Inc., damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, 18 jewels, bi-metallic compensation balance with timing and poising screws, Breguet hairspring, adjusted to 2 positions and temperature Movement number: numbered beneath dial 35'007 Case: 18k yellow gold, polished upper body, gold screw-set lug bars, case secured by four gold screws to case sides, octagonal crown, flat satin finished case back, left case side with French eagle’s head control mark, outside case back with French eagle’s head control mark and Edmond Jaeger punch mark Case number: hand stamped 33'799 and hand etched 010'502, inside case back hand stamped 3[2]3'799 Closure: 18k yellow and pink gold deployant buckle with D-shaped clasp, buckle interior with Edmond Jaeger punch mark and stamped twice with French eagle’s head control mark, and hand stamped numbers 11'969 Size: 33 x 24.7 mm Accessories: Cartier presentation box

View 1 of Lot 19: Tank Normale ‘Grande’ | New York retailed: A rare yellow gold rectangular wristwatch with yellow and pink gold deployant buckle, Circa 1945

tank normale ‘grande’ | new york retailed: a rare yellow gold rectangular wristwatch with yellow and pink gold deployant buckle, circa 1945

Dial: cream dial signed Cartier, stretched radial Roman numerals, inner chemin-de-fer minute track, blued steel epée hands Caliber: 9’’’ circular LeCoultre calibre movement signed European Watch & Clock Co. Inc., damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, 18 jewels, bi-metallic compensation balance with timing and poising screws, flat hairspring, adjusted to temperatures and two positions Movement number: numbered to backplate 100'433 Case: 18k yellow gold polished case, gold screw-set lug bars, gold case back secured by four screws to case sides, cabochon sapphire-set beaded crown, inside case back with London hallmarks, date letter ‘P’ for 1950-51, (JC) Jacques Cartier punch mark, and 100'433 Closure: 18k yellow and pink gold Cartier deployant buckle with London hallmarks, date letter ‘Q’ for 1951-52, and (JC) Jacques Cartier punch mark Size: 31 x 23 mm Box: yes Papers: no Accessories: Cartier presentation box

View 1 of Lot 110: Tank Normale | A yellow gold rectangular wristwatch with yellow and pink gold deployant buckle, Circa 1950-51 

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