Philippe Fantini

Private collection, United States;

Sale, Sotheby’s, New York, 12 October 1994, lot 71;

Private collection;

From whom acquired by the present owner.

The present work appears to draw loosely on North Indian courtly dress, particularly the visual language of 19th-century maharaja portraiture. The sitter’s elaborate turban and jeweled presentation recall images of the Maharaja of Patiala, though the specific necklace and accessories do not correspond closely to known examples, including the famous Cartier Patiala necklace.

Rather than a documentary depiction, the costume seems to be a highly imaginative conflation of South Asian and possibly Southeast Asian or Himalayan elements. The bird-of-paradise plume is especially unusual in an Indian context and may point to broader exoticist fantasy rather than strict ethnographic accuracy. The tassels and jewelry also appear more theatrical or decorative than courtly. Overall, the work should be understood as a fantasy vision of princely dress, inspired by Indian royal imagery but not intended as a precise representation of a specific costume or figure.