Rolex

The introduction of the Rolex Submariner reference 5512 in 1959 marked the moment the model evolved into the watch we recognize today. It featured the now-standard 40 mm case with beveled lugs, crown guards, and the iconic Mercedes hands. The reference remained in continuous production for over two decades, from 1959 to approximately 1980.

Within this reference, the dial contributes immensely to the identity of each watch produced during this long run. While all 5512s were fitted with black dials, two principal styles can be distinguished. Earlier examples, such as the present watch, were fitted with glossy black dials with gilt printing until approximately 1967. Rolex later replaced this style with matte black dials featuring white printing.

A notable characteristic of the reference is the evolution of the movement over the course of its production. Early examples were fitted with the caliber 1530, later replaced by the calibers 1560 and 1570. These movements successfully passed the trials of the COSC, allowing Rolex to include additional chronometer-certification wording on the dial, giving rise to the well-known four-line Submariner 5512. This chronometer designation appears on both gilt and matte dial variants.

A particularly appealing detail of the present example is the “meters first” depth rating, a characteristic associated with early gilt-dial Submariners in which the metric depth rating precedes the imperial measurement. In later production, the order was reversed, with “660ft = 200m” becoming the standard format through the end of the 5512’s production in the late 1970s.

The combination of a gilt dial and meters-first depth rating places this example among one of the transitional iterations of the reference. Although the case shows light polishing, the bevels remain well defined, and the proportions retain the presence expected of Rolex’s quintessential tool watch. The vintage character of the piece is particularly pleasing, with lume plots that have aged evenly and a bezel insert displaying a gentle fade. Rather than detracting from the watch, these elements contribute to the charm and authenticity of this legendary reference.