
100 Years of Oyster
Reference 4130 'Empire' | A rare pink gold bubble-back automatic wristwatch with center seconds and pink dial, Circa 1948
Session begins in
00:33:29
•
June 15, 06:00 PM GMT
Estimate
7,000 - 14,000 USD
Lot Details
Description
Dial: salmon, roman silvered index numerals at 12,3,6 and 9
Caliber: cal. 9 3/4 automatic, 19 jewels
Movement number: 97'433
Case: 18k pink gold, screw-down case back
Case number: 54'999
Size: 32 mm diameter
Signed: case, dial signed Oyster Perpetual Chronometre and movement
Box: no
Papers: no
The "Pink on Pink" Holy Grail
While any Rolex Empire is a prize for connoisseurs, the "pink on pink" configuration—an 18K rose gold case paired with a salmon-colored dial—is a legendary rarity. Measuring a classic mid-century 32mm in diameter and characterized by elongated, sloped lugs, this solid and masculine palette carries an incredibly warm, sophisticated note.
Historically, these ultra-luxurious, monochromatic pink executions were often reserved exclusively for the affluent South American market. This geographical exclusivity, combined with low production numbers, makes surviving examples exceptionally scarce today.
During the 1940s, horological fashion demanded thin, sleek dress watches that slipped effortlessly under a shirt cuff. However, Rolex was facing a engineering hurdle. Their revolutionary, early automatic "Bubble Back" movements required a thick, protruding rotor. This mechanical necessity clashed directly with the era's aesthetic preferences.
To counter this, Rolex introduced the Empire design—a masterclass in visual illusion. Instead of shrinking the movement, Rolex redesigned the architecture of the case.
Crafted primarily by Genex, a legendary historic case maker for the firm, the Empire featured a highly stylized, conic case back with distinctively milled, coin-edged bands and lug sides. When strapped to the wrist, these sloping angles and milled edges fooled the eye. They made a thick watch appear remarkably slim and elegant from a side profile, seamlessly bridging the gap between automatic utility and dress watch elegance.