View full screen - View 1 of Lot 204. Reference 4130 'Empire' | A rare pink gold bubble-back automatic wristwatch with center seconds and pink dial, Circa 1948.

100 Years of Oyster

Rolex

Reference 4130 'Empire' | A rare pink gold bubble-back automatic wristwatch with center seconds and pink dial, Circa 1948

Session begins in

00:33:29

June 15, 06:00 PM GMT

Estimate

7,000 - 14,000 USD

Lot Details

Description

Dial: salmon, roman silvered index numerals at 12,3,6 and 9

Caliber: cal. 9 3/4 automatic, 19 jewels

Movement number: 97'433

Case: 18k pink gold, screw-down case back

Case number: 54'999

Size: 32 mm diameter

Signed: case, dial signed Oyster Perpetual Chronometre and movement

Box: no

Papers: no

The "Pink on Pink" Holy Grail

While any Rolex Empire is a prize for connoisseurs, the "pink on pink" configuration—an 18K rose gold case paired with a salmon-colored dial—is a legendary rarity. Measuring a classic mid-century 32mm in diameter and characterized by elongated, sloped lugs, this solid and masculine palette carries an incredibly warm, sophisticated note.


Historically, these ultra-luxurious, monochromatic pink executions were often reserved exclusively for the affluent South American market. This geographical exclusivity, combined with low production numbers, makes surviving examples exceptionally scarce today.


During the 1940s, horological fashion demanded thin, sleek dress watches that slipped effortlessly under a shirt cuff. However, Rolex was facing a engineering hurdle. Their revolutionary, early automatic "Bubble Back" movements required a thick, protruding rotor. This mechanical necessity clashed directly with the era's aesthetic preferences.

To counter this, Rolex introduced the Empire design—a masterclass in visual illusion. Instead of shrinking the movement, Rolex redesigned the architecture of the case.

Crafted primarily by Genex, a legendary historic case maker for the firm, the Empire featured a highly stylized, conic case back with distinctively milled, coin-edged bands and lug sides. When strapped to the wrist, these sloping angles and milled edges fooled the eye. They made a thick watch appear remarkably slim and elegant from a side profile, seamlessly bridging the gap between automatic utility and dress watch elegance.