Rolex

The Rolex Explorer II reference 1655 occupies an unusual yet important position within the history of vintage Rolex sports watches. Introduced in 1971 and produced until the mid-1980s, the reference was originally developed as a practical tool watch intended for cave explorers, speleologists, and adventurers operating in environments where distinguishing between day and night could become difficult and thus required a 24-hour time display. However, the oddball design of the watch, especially the hour markers and distinct oversized orange 24-hour hand, polarised audiences and the watch was considered a commercial failure.

Today, these drawbacks have instead resulted in the reference 1655 being celebrated for its highly distinctive design and unmistakable aesthetic character. The oversized orange 24-hour hand, unusual dial typography, long minute markers, and tall acrylic crystal give the watch a personality entirely separate from the Submariner and GMT-Master models produced during the same period.

Over the past two decades, the Rolex Explorer II 1655 has evolved from a relatively overlooked vintage sports model into a cult-classic reference. Its comparatively low production numbers, unconventional design language, and direct connection to the golden era of Rolex tool watches have made it increasingly sought-after among serious collectors.