The Shapes of Cartier
Cartier, London
Tank Normale | A rare 9k yellow gold rectangular wristwatch with gold deployant buckle | Made in 1950-51
Auction Closed
May 10, 02:36 PM GMT
Estimate
10,000 - 15,000 CHF
Lot Details
Description
Dial: cream dial signed Cartier, stretched radial Roman numerals, inner chemin-de-fer minute track, blued steel epée hands
Movement: 9’’’ circular LeCoultre calibre movement signed European Watch & Clock Co. Inc., damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, 18 jewels, bi-metallic compensation balance with timing and poising screws, flat hairspring, adjusted to temperatures and two positions
Movement number: 486’168
Case: 9k yellow gold polished case, gold screw-set lug bars, gold case back secured by 4 screws to case sides, cabochon sapphire-set beaded crown, inside case top hand stamped • 7284 •, inside case back with London hallmarks, date letter ‘P’ for 1950-51, [JC] Jacques Cartier punch mark and hand stamped numbers • 7284 •, 486168
Case number: London Reference/Stock No. • 7284 •
Closure: 18k gold Cartier deployant buckle with London hallmarks, date letter ‘U’ for 1955-56, [JC] Jacques Cartier punch mark and hand stamped numbers 0264
Size: 23 x 31 mm (width x length including lugs)
Box: yes
Papers: no
Accessories: Cartier presentation box
François Chaille, Franco Cologni, The Cartier Collection: Timepieces, Paris: Flammarion, 2006. See p. 407 for a similar Cartier London Tank Normale but in 18ct gold and dating to 1956.
While the Cartier Tank is widely recognised for its enduring design, subtle variations across its production reveal a remarkable depth of nuance. The present example, dating from 1950–51, originates from Cartier London under the direction of Jean-Jacques Cartier and, according to research, represents one of the earliest known Tanks produced at the Bond Street workshop.
At first glance, the watch adheres to the classic Tank aesthetic, with the notable exception of its London hallmarks. More significantly, the case is crafted in 9ct yellow gold, an extremely unusual choice for Cartier, which almost exclusively used 18ct gold. While Cartier New York occasionally produced watches in 14ct gold, virtually all other gold Cartier watches were made in 18ct, including those from the Paris workshop. To date, no other comparable 9ct gold Tank from this period has been documented.
A rare and historically important variation, this example offers a unique insight into the early and highly individual production of Cartier London.