View full screen - View 1 of Lot 98. Stepped Tank Hicham XL, Reference 15716 | A yellow gold-plated wristwatch | Circa 1975.

Property from an Important Collector

Cartier

Stepped Tank Hicham XL, Reference 15716 | A yellow gold-plated wristwatch | Circa 1975

Auction Closed

May 10, 02:36 PM GMT

Estimate

5,000 - 10,000 CHF

Lot Details

Description

Dial: black

Calibre: cal. ETA 2512 manual winding, 17 jewels

Case: gold-plated, snap-on case back

Case number: 5'512'116, 3'980

Closure: gold-plated buckle

Size: 27.5 x 37.5 mm (width x length including lugs)

Signed: dial, case and movement

Box: no

Papers: no

Accessories: none


Please note the leather strap derived from endangered species is for display purposes only and is not sold with the watch. The watch will be shipped with a Sotheby’s branded calf leather strap.

The oversized “Tank Hicham” XL forms part of Cartier’s elusive Stepped‑Case family of the mid‑1970s, one of the most intriguing and least documented chapters of Cartier’s pre‑must de Cartier era. Produced in small boutique‑specific batches for Paris, London and New York, these watches are recognised for their sharply tiered bezel, painted Roman numerals and bold reinterpretation of the classic Tank aesthetic during a period when Cartier’s major boutiques still operated independently.


With limited examples made for both Paris, London, and New York, well preserved survivors are extremely rare, due to dial ageing, heavy wear, and the fragile gold‑plated brass cases.


Crucially, the Stepped‑Case designs anticipated Cartier’s strategic shift toward accessible luxury. They stand as a pre‑collection precursor to the philosophy that would later define the Must de Cartier line, culminating in the launch of the Tank Must in 1977, a model that reintroduced the Tank to a wider audience with colourful dials, plated cases, and a modern reinterpretation of Louis Cartier’s 1917 design.


Bold, sculptural and historically significant, the Tank Hicham XL remains one of the most distinctive gold plated Tank variants of the 1970s and an important link between Cartier’s boutique creativity and the Cartier collection we know today.