The Shapes of Cartier
Cartier, Paris
Santos, Reference 96054 | A slim limited edition platinum wristwatch with burgundy numerals and ruby cabochon-set crown, with 18ct white gold deployant buckle | Circa 1980
Auction Closed
May 10, 02:36 PM GMT
Estimate
20,000 - 30,000 CHF
Lot Details
Description
Dial: silvered dial signed Cartier Paris in burgundy text, burgundy stretched radial Roman numerals, outer chemin-de-fer minute track, blued steel epée hands
Calibre: 9’’’ circular Frédéric Piguet calibre 21 movement signed Cartier, damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, 17 jewels, annular balance, flat hairspring
Case: platinum case, satin finished upper body, polished bezel secured by 8 screws mounted from the underside, polished case sides, lugs with screw set bars, platinum case back secured by four screws to case sides, ruby cabochon-set notched crown, outside case back with Swiss Ibex assay mark for platinum, signed Cartier, inside case back with Swiss Ibex assay mark for platinum and Poinçon de Maître hammer-head punch 127 for Edmor S.A.
Case number: 960'540'504
Closure: 18ct white gold Cartier deployant buckle with French eagle’s head assay mark
Size: 27 x 36 mm (width x length including lugs)
Box: no
Papers: no
Accessories: none
Franco Cologni & Eric Nussbaum, Platinum by Cartier, New York: Abrams, 1996, p.226.
In 1979, the Paris, London, and New York branches of Cartier were unified under a single entity, Cartier World. To commemorate this milestone, the maison released a series of limited edition wristwatches in platinum, including models such as the Baignoire, Ellipse, Santos, Tank LC, Tortue, and Vendôme. These pieces were distinguished by specially designed dials featuring burgundy Roman numerals and ruby cabochon set crowns, a design language later revisited for subsequent commemorative editions.
The present Santos exemplifies this rare series in an exceptionally refined execution. An ultra slim interpretation of the iconic model, it is powered by the Frédéric Piguet calibre 21, measuring just 1.75 mm in height. Once cased, the watch achieves an overall thickness of only 4.5 mm, underscoring Cartier’s mastery of elegant, slim proportions.