View full screen - View 1 of Lot 67. Daytona, Reference 16520 | A possibly unique and never-seen-before stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with bracelet and white diamond-set dial | Circa 1997.

Rolex

Daytona, Reference 16520 | A possibly unique and never-seen-before stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with bracelet and white diamond-set dial | Circa 1997

Auction Closed

May 10, 02:36 PM GMT

Estimate

24,000 - 50,000 CHF

Lot Details

Description

Dial: white, black registers, diamonds, inverted 6

Calibre: cal. 4030 automatic, 31 jewels

Movement number: 141'274

Case: stainless steel, screw-down case back

Case number: U'341'739

Closure: stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet and folding clasp

Size: 40 mm diameter, bracelet circumference approximately 200 mm (including additional link)

Signed: case, dial and movement

Box: yes

Papers: no

Accessories: Rolex service warranty card dated January 2020, service card, warranty manual, service invoice dated 2020, second service invoice dated 2025, two insurance valuation documents, additional link, numbered hang tag, COSC hang tag, card holder, travel pouch and presentation box

The Rolex 16520 is a watch icon. Introduced for the 25th birthday of the Daytona, it was the most important evolution in the history of the celebrated model.


This present lot is not any Zenith Daytona. Indeed, it is nothing less than an extraordinary discovery for the market. More precisely, its dial, the favourite part for Rolex collectors, has a combination that has never been seen before. The steel case is fitted with a diamond-set indexes. One might think that it is a dial for a white gold model, reference 16519, later added on this watch. However, these dials were not produced in white with black subsidiary dials. Furthermore, they did not feature the earlier inverted 6, as the 16519 produced between 1998 and 2000.

This present dial is closer to the yellow gold models, namely 16528 and 16518, with the difference of the white gold diamond claws, instead of yellow.


The Rolex documents coming with the watch and dated from various years provide the key to the enigma. They confirm the dial as "16528 Blanc Index G lvt". This element clearly indicates that Rolex used a 16528 style dial for this piece. The letter is addressed to the owner at the time, who was a Rolex employee. Further researches have revealed that at the time, some special commissions from certain members of the staff were accepted by Rolex. It appears that the person successfully commissioned a stainless steel Daytona with diamond-set indexes, similar to the yellow gold model, including the inverted 30 minute Arabic numeral at 6 o'clock, but with white gold claws to match the colour of the case metal. The watch was eventually acquired by a private collector who successfully submitted the watch to Rolex for a service to confirm its elements.


The appearance on the market of a special commission Rolex, especially on its most collectible model, is an incredibly exciting opportunity.