The Shapes of Cartier
Cartier, Paris
A rare and early platinum and diamond-set wristwatch with bangle-form bracelet | Circa 1913
Auction Closed
May 10, 02:36 PM GMT
Estimate
10,000 - 16,000 CHF
Lot Details
Description
Dial: silvered sunburst patterned engine-turned dial, stretched black radial Roman numerals, inner chemin-de-fer minute track, blued steel Breguet hands
Movement: 7¾’’’ circular movement signed Cartier Paris, damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, 18 jewels, bi-metallic compensation balance with timing and poising screws, 8 adjustments, Breguet hairspring
Movement number: beneath dial 13’707
Case: 18k yellow gold case back, platinum upper case, bezel with a row of rose-cut diamonds in millegrain setting, four collet-set old-cut diamonds separating the bezel from a further row of rose-cut diamonds, polished yellow gold case back, inverted diamond-set crown
Case numbers: 13’707, 5’814
Closure: later openwork bangle-form bracelet, each length with a bar set with a row of rose-cut diamonds, hook and bar closure with diamond-set safety catch
Size: 20.5 x 30.5 mm (width x length including lugs)
Box: yes
Papers: no
Accessories: Cartier presentation box
During the 1910s, Cartier produced a series of elegant platinum and diamond set watches, offered both as wristwatches and pendants. Among the most sought after designs of the period was the square platinum case with a diamond set bezel, here elevated by distinctive, sculptural lugs composed of four collet set old cut diamonds, each framed by rows of rose cut stones.
A similar lug design can be observed on contemporary tonneau shaped models, while the rigid bracelet of the present example transforms the watch into a refined bangle, seamlessly blending horology and jewellery.
These creations also reflect Cartier’s pioneering use of platinum, a technically demanding material whose strength allowed for intricate settings and enhanced brilliance. Perfectly aligned with the emerging Art Deco aesthetic, the result is a composition of remarkable delicacy, structure, and enduring elegance.