
Tank Lugless | A very rare yellow gold rectangular wristwatch with hooded lugs and original gold deployant buckle, Circa 1970-71
Auction Closed
April 24, 04:23 PM GMT
Estimate
200,000 - 280,000 HKD
Lot Details
Description
Cartier, London
Tank Lugless
A very rare yellow gold rectangular wristwatch with hooded lugs and original gold deployant buckle, Circa 1970-71
Dial: cream dial signed Cartier, stretched black radial Roman numerals, blued steel épée hands
Calibre: 9’’’ calibre P838 movement signed Jaeger-LeCoultre, damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, annular balance, flat hairspring
Movement number: 1'862'534
Case: 18k yellow gold rectangular case, rounded bezel, hooded lugs with spring bars, beaded cabochon sapphire-set crown, case back secured by screws between hooded lugs
Case number: outside case back numbered 9'034, inside case back with London hallmarks for 18k gold, date letter ‘p’ for 1970-71, [JC] Jean-Jacques Cartier punch mark and numbered 9'034
Closure: black unsigned leather strap and 18k gold deployant buckle with London hallmarks for 18k gold, date letter ‘p’ for 1970-71, [JC] Jean-Jacques Cartier punch mark and numbered 9'034
Size: 29 mm length x 23 width
Accessories: Cartier presentation box and travelling pouch
An unusual London Tank model, this design blends elements of both the Tank Normale and J.J.C. Tank – combining the broad crossbars of the former with the rounded sides of the latter. While its overall proportions remain similar to standard Normale and J.J.C. models, the case sides are slightly slimmer, and the crossbars have been repositioned to the very ends of the case. This adjustment eliminates the traditional brancard overhang and, together with the narrower case profile, expands the dial’s surface area, resulting in a bolder and more distinctive aesthetic. The concealment of the lugs aligns with a broader design trend at Cartier London during this era, where many models featured concealed or hooded lugs to create bold case shapes with pure geometric forms – whether octagonal, decagonal, rectangular, or circular. This design approach enhanced the impression of unbroken case geometry, making the watches appear to float on their leather straps. Further emphasising the London influence, the present watch features a cream dial with bold, stretched Roman numerals, a script signature, and the absence of a minute track – all hallmarks of the design language favoured by Cartier London in the late 1960s and early 1970s.
George Gordon, Cartier - A Century of Cartier Wristwatches, Hong Kong: Timeless Elegance, 1989. See p. 507, fig. 382 for a similar model.
卡地亞 倫敦
Tank Lugless
非常罕有黃金長方形腕錶,備覆蓋式錶耳及原裝金錶扣,約1970-71年製
附帶盒子及旅行袋子