Cartier, Paris

Cartier, Paris

Tank Chinoise

A very rare and unusual yellow gold square wristwatch, Circa 1930

Dial: silvered dial signed Cartier France, stretched radial Roman numerals, inner chemin-de-fer minute track, blued steel Breguet hands

Calibre: 9’’’ circular LeCoultre calibre movement signed European Watch and Clock Co. Inc., damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, 19 jewels, bi-metallic compensation balance with timing and poising screws, 8 adjustments, flat hairspring

Movement number: numbered beneath dial 31'662

Case: 18k yellow gold square polished case, pronounced crossbars with central raised square motifs to reference portico columns, gold screw-set bar lugs, case back secured by four screws to case sides, unusual t-form lugs, beaded cabochon sapphire-set crown

Case number: case back exterior with hand stamped numbers 24'407, 31'662, case interior signed European Watch and Clock Co. Inc. France, and numbered 24'407, further numbered internally to lower right support XXX 79'800

Closure: beige unsigned leather strap and later 18k yellow gold deployant buckle signed Cartier New York and numbered 17'030

Size: 33 mm length x 22 mm width

Accessories: Cartier presentation box and travelling pouch

Cartier’s designs during the Art Deco period were profoundly influenced by a growing fascination with Egyptian, Chinese, Indian, and Islamic arts, expanding the brand’s creative horizons and infusing its creations with a rich diversity of forms and motifs. Inspired by these vibrant cultural traditions, Cartier embraced an entirely new visual language, seamlessly incorporating exotic patterns and motifs into their jewellery and watches. This fusion of Eastern and Western influences resulted in bold, innovative designs that epitomised the luxurious, cosmopolitan spirit of the time. Cartier’s use of sinuous lines, geometric forms, and lavish materials – ranging from carved gemstones to ornate metalwork – perfectly aligned with the opulence and modernity of Art Deco, while also reflecting the brand’s unparalleled craftsmanship and visionary approach to design. This cross-cultural influence became a defining element of Cartier’s signature style, contributing to their enduring legacy as a leader in luxury and artistic innovation. The design of the Cartier Tank Chinoise wristwatch, introduced in 1922, was heavily influenced by Chinese architecture, specifically the design of traditional Chinese temple porticos. The rectangular case, with its horizontal bars on the top and bottom, is a stylized representation of the crossbeams found in Chinese pagodas and temples. This influence reflects Cartier’s broader exploration of exoticism and cross-cultural aesthetics during the Art Deco period, when the fascination with Chinese and Asian motifs was particularly strong. Based around a large 9’’’ calibre movement, the Chinoise was the only Tank model to be produced in a man’s size only.

The Tank Chinoise’s design is part of Cartier’s legacy of integrating global artistic influences into its creations, drawing from Chinese design elements to create a watch that not only maintained the clean, geometric lines of the original Tank model, but also added an element of cultural richness and decorative elegance. This version of the Tank Chinoise is particularly rare and unusual with its double central raised squares referencing the columns of a Chinese temple portico and unconventional graduated T-style lugs. It is an excellent example of Cartier’s skill at combining technical innovation with artistic expression to make a statement piece within their Art Deco collection of watches.