Cartier, Paris

Cartier, Paris

A yellow gold and black enamel Egyptian revival Art Deco clip watch, Circa 1930

Dial: cream, signed Cartier, France, black Arabic numerals, blued steel spade hands, inner 5-minute calibrations

Calibre: 4¾’’’ baguette-form rear-wound duoplan LeCoultre movement signed Jaeger, damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, 15 jewels, bi-metallic compensation balance, adjusted to temperature and one position, flat hairspring

Movement number: numbered 1'646, soft metal movement cover with pearled decoration

Case: 18k yellow gold case, the front of architectural Egyptian revival form with stepped bezel heightened by black enamel banding, the clip hinge with central black enamel band and set with onyx cabochons to each end, outside case back engraved with initials I.G., hand etched Breveté S.G.D.G. (Breveté Sans Garantie Du Gouvernement) and with French eagle’s head assay mark and rubbed Edmond Jaeger punch mark

Case number: bezel interior hand stamped 24'577, inside case back signed European Watch and Clock Co Inc, France, back of clip indistinctly stamped 58

Size: 36.5 mm length x 16.5 mm width

Accessories: none

The influence of Egyptian Revivalism on Cartier’s Art Deco works was profound and visibly came to prominence in the 1920s following the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb in 1922. This archaeological wonder ignited a global fascination with ancient Egyptian art and architecture, which Cartier expertly incorporated into its designs. The maison’s jewellery creations from this era featured bold geometric patterns, stylised lotus flowers, scarabs, and hieroglyph inspired details, alongside architectural elements such as stepped forms and pylons evocative of ancient temples. These motifs were often rendered in striking combinations of onyx, lapis lazuli, turquoise, and enamel, seamlessly blending ancient symbolism with modern aesthetics to redefine luxury and innovation in the Art Deco period. These elements also found their way into Cartier’s watch designs, as seen in this clip watch, which reflects the influence of Egyptian Revivalism on the firm’s Art Deco creations. Its motifs draw inspiration from ancient Egyptian architecture and decorative arts, seamlessly blending historical references with modern fashion. The stepped formation below 6 o’clock echoes monumental structures such as the Step Pyramid of Djoser, while the column-like details reflect the aesthetic of papyrus and lotus columns found in temples such as those at Karnak. These features are reimagined with the clean geometric lines characteristic of the Art Deco style, while black enamel accents evoke the contrasts found in Egyptian ceremonial objects. This style of clip is particularly strong and was almost certainly intended to be attached to a lady’s handbag or purse. The outside case back is stamped with the legend BTE S.G.D.G., an abbreviation of the French Breveté sans garantie du Gouvernment (Patented without Government Guarantee).