Cartier, New York
A rare pink gold purse watch in the form of an envelope, Circa 1943
Auction Closed
April 24, 04:23 PM GMT
Estimate
95,000 - 140,000 HKD
Lot Details
Description
Cartier, New York
A rare pink gold purse watch in the form of an envelope, Circa 1943
Dial: silvered dial signed Cartier, raised gilded Arabic and pointed baton hour indexes, outer chemin-de-fer minute track, gilded pointed baton hands
Calibre: 6¾’’’ tonneau form movement signed Pery Watch, lever escapement, 17 jewels, bi-metallic compensation balance with timing and poising screws, unadjusted, flat hairspring
Movement number: numbered 2'590 and with U.S. import code MOS
Case: 14k pink gold case in the form of an envelope, the front engraved with the recipient’s address, US 6c postage stamp and post marked for New York, June 20, 1943, covers sliding open on runners to reveal the dial, case back with outline engraving in the form of an envelope flap and inscribed “From Mr. And Mrs. Ortiz, New York City”, back of the inner case of ribbed design, pendant loop for chain to corner
Size: 36 mm length x 19.5 mm width
Accessories: Cartier presentation box and travelling pouch
One of the most charming forms of purse watches sold by Cartier was the envelope watch, available during the 1940s. These whimsical designs were intended as gifts, with the fronts of the “envelopes” engraved with the recipient’s name and address, while the “franking” often commemorated a special occasion, such as a birthday, anniversary or Christmas Day. The Cartier envelope watches were made in silver or gold, with gold examples being particularly rare. This example is engraved with the name and address of James Ortiz, the recipient, and is franked with a New York postmark dated June 20, 1943 – the date of Ortiz’s 13th birthday. On the reverse, an engraved motif mimics the flap of an envelope and bears the inscription “From Mr. and Mrs. Ortiz, New York City”, a thoughtful detail that resembles the format of a return address, referencing the gift’s senders – Ortiz’s parents.
The watch case opens by sliding the two halves of the envelope apart to reveal the dial, while a simple loop attachment in the top-left corner allows it to be worn on a chain. This playful yet sophisticated design exemplifies Cartier’s ability to combine functionality with sentimentality, resulting in a timepiece that is both elegant and deeply personal. The inspiration for the novelty envelope design may have stemmed from earlier Cartier creations, including stamp boxes and cigarette cases. Notably, an example of the latter was made by Cartier London in 1932 for Randolph Churchill, the son of Sir Winston Churchill.
Sotheby’s New York, Important Watches and Clocks - The Estate of the late Jaime Ortiz-Patiño, 10 June 2013, lot 237.
Alexander Barter, The Watch: A Twentieth-Century Style History, London: Prestel, 2019. This watch is described and illustrated on p. 148 together with another example of the model in silver.
卡地亞 紐約
罕有粉紅金信封形錢包錶，約1943年製
附帶盒子及旅行袋子