Important Watches

Cartier, Paris

Santos Droit | A very rare and early yellow gold wristwatch with original early gold deployant clasp, Circa 1915

Auction Closed

September 19, 06:56 AM GMT

Estimate

200,000 - 280,000 HKD

Lot Details

Description

Cartier, Paris

Santos Droit

A very rare and early yellow gold wristwatch with original early gold deployant clasp, Circa 1915

Dial: cream dial signed Cartier, stretched radial black Roman numerals, inner chemin-de-fer minute track, blued steel hands

Calibre: later replacement 9¼’’’ circular Jaeger-LeCoultre K818/1 movement signed Cartier Inc. and with U.S. import code VXN, damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, 18 jewels, annular balance, flat hairspring, adjusted to temperatures and 2 positions

Movement number: numbered to back of main plate 809’322

Case: 18k yellow gold case, polished upper body, chamfered bezel secured by eight pink gold screws mounted from the underside, the lugs with gold screw-set bars, case secured by four gold screws to case sides, sapphire cabochon-set beaded crown, case top with French eagle’s head assay mark, case back interior with Edmond Jaeger punch mark

Case number: lug numbered to underside 557

Closure: camel unsigned leather strap and early 18k yellow gold deployant buckle with ardillon buckle numbered 10’355, stamped twice with French eagle’s head assay mark and twice faintly with EJ punch mark

Size: 31 mm length x 22 mm width

Accessories: none

In 1904 Louis Cartier (1875-1942) supplied his pioneering aviator friend, Alberto Santos-Dumont (1873-1932), with a wristwatch that could be used to consult the time while at the controls of one of his airships. Louis Cartier was passionately interested in watches and sought to develop a greater range of both pocket and wristwatches. He quickly recognised the potential of the wristwatch which hitherto had almost exclusively been regarded as a jewelry item for ladies. By attaching a watch to the wrist of one of the most famous and daring celebrities of his day, Louis Cartier was undoubtedly intending to demonstrate the practicality and allure of outwardly wearing a beautifully crafted timepiece.

In 1914, Cartier released a new version of the Santos, named the Santos Droit, of which the present wristwatch is a very rare and early example. The Santos Droit has lugs which curve around the ends of the case rather than pinching inwards as seen on the earlier Santos-Dumont design. Also noticeable is the bezel which, on the Santos Droit, is chamfered in contrast to the rounded finish of the Santos-Dumont. The bezel is secured via screws mounted from the underside of the case top, these screws being pink gold and providing a subtle contrast to the yellow gold bezel.

卡地亞巴黎

Santos Droit

極罕見及早期黃金腕錶，備原裝早期黃金摺疊錶扣，約1915年製

Please note that the movement has not been tested for the accuracy of time and may need a service at the buyer's expense.

Sotheby's does not guarantee the future working of the movement and we do not guarantee the authenticity of any individual component parts since subsequent repairs and restoration work may have resulted in the replacement of original parts. You are advised that watch straps or bands made of materials derived from endangered or otherwise protected species (i.e. alligator or crocodile) are not sold with the watch and we reserve the right to remove these straps or bands prior to shipping. Furthermore, the watch may not come with its original manufacturers strap or band.

Prospective bidders should review the Conditions of Business, Authenticity Guarantee, the Guide for Prospective Buyers, and any Important Notice in the sale catalogue.

"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. All dimensions in catalogue descriptions are approximate. Condition reports may not specify mechanical replacements or imperfections to the movement, case, dial, pendulum, separate base(s) or dome. Watches in water-resistant cases have been opened to examine movements but no warranties are made that the watches are currently water-resistant. Please note that we do not guarantee the authenticity of any individual component parts, such as wheels, hands, crowns, crystals, screws, bracelets and leather bands, since subsequent repairs and restoration work may have resulted in the replacement of original parts. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue. In particular, please note it is the purchaser's responsibility to comply with any applicable import and export matters, particularly in relation to lots incorporating materials from endangered species.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

**Please be advised that bands made of materials derived from endangered or otherwise protected species (i.e. alligator and crocodile) are not sold with the watches and are for display purposes only. We reserve the right to remove these bands prior to shipping."