Jaeger-LeCoultre
Reverso 60th Anniversary, Reference 270.2.64 | A limited edition pink gold reversible wristwatch with date and power reserve, Circa 1991
Estimate
100,000 - 300,000 HKD
Lot Details
Description
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Reverso 60th Anniversary, Reference 270.2.64
A limited edition pink gold reversible wristwatch with date and power reserve, Circa 1991
Dial: silvered
Calibre: cal. 824 mechanical, 23 jewels
Case: 18k pink gold, reversible
Case number: limited edition 083/500
Closure: black Jaeger-LeCoultre alligator strap and 18k pink gold folding clasp
Size: 42 mm length x 26 mm width
Signed: case, dial and movement
Accessories: none
The story of the Reverso has become almost mythologised in the collecting sphere. Most know the story about how the original watch came to be, patented by LeCoultre in 1931 for polo players who needed their watches to be protected from the rigors of sport, but perhaps lesser known is what happened to the Reverso in the decades between then and now. Indeed, due to another devastating World War and the resulting changes in fashion and design preferences, a reversible rectangular watch soon fell out of favour much like the Art Deco period it was born in. Jaeger-LeCoultre would attempt to revive the Reverso in the late mid-century, but not to huge success. It wouldn’t be until the 90s where the Reverso as we know it would burst onto the scene, under the direction of the great Günter Blümlein.
Blümlein’s name is, without question, one of the most respected corporate names in modern watchmaking. After building his career at Diehl, once the largest clock and watch manufacturer in the world during the early 20th century, he moved to VDO Schindling AG, which in 1978 purchased both IWC and Jaeger-LeCoultre. Blümlein was made the head of a newly created division named Les Manufactures Horlogères, eventually acquired by Richemont. IWC was greatly modernised under Blümlein’s efforts, the effects of which can still be felt today, and during the period he also took on another pivotal role of resurrecting one more heritage watch manufacturer by the name of A. Lange & Söhne. To say that Günter Blümlein has had a direct hand in the restructuring and revival of some of the greatest watch brands in the world is no understatement, and his legendary repertoire also includes Jaeger-LeCoultre and the Reverso.
The Reverso quietly returned in the mid-80s. Though the distinctive design proved popular, it still had a long way to go before becoming an icon. However, Blümlein and partner Henri-John Belmont immediately recognised that they had a diamond in the rough. In 1991 to mark the Reverso’s 60th anniversary, the pair knew they had to innovate to make the Reverso a hit. Starting on the year of the anniversary, over the next decade Jaeger-LeCoultre would introduce a series of six limited editions, each made in just 500 pieces. Not only did these references debut the now model-standard Grande Taille case, they were also the first Reversos to ever feature complications of any kind. Every edition proved to be a home run, and thanks to their momentum the Reverso was finally off to the races, and is today the jewel in the crown of Jaeger-LeCoultre.
Due to their significant position in the history of the model line and of the brand Jaeger-LeCoultre, additionally being graced by the genius of Günter Blümlein, and also not to mention the beauty of their design and the level of high horology packed within, the six 90s Reverso limited editions are now greatly coveted and referred to by collectors as “The Big Six”. Sotheby’s is proud to present each reference within this beloved series, half of which even with the same case number.
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The official first piece within the Big Six is the 60th Anniversary edition itself, otherwise known as the Soixantième. Günter Blümlein recognised the shift towards larger case sizes, and wisely adapted the reverso case to be larger and more architectural, featuring the iconic three-groove design above and below the dial. Complications were also added for the first time, including an off-centre power reserve as well as a highly distinctive and quirky pointer-style date indication with warped track. A final luxury was the movement, crafted out of 14k gold and fully visible through the reversible case back. Beginning with the Soixantième, the Reverso line as we know it found its wings.
積家 Reverso 60th Anniversary 型號270.2.64
限量版粉紅金可翻轉腕錶，備日期及動力儲備顯示，約1991年製
在收藏界，Reverso 腕錶的故事幾乎已成為一段傳奇。大多數人熟知其原始錶款的誕生原由，由 LeCoultre 於 1931 年取得專利，專為馬球運動員設計，以保護腕錶免受劇烈運動帶來的衝擊。然而，鮮為人知的是，Reverso 在此後數十年間的經歷。事實上，由於另一場毀滅性的世界大戰，以及隨之而來的時尚與設計偏好變遷，這款可翻轉的長方形腕錶很快便如同孕育它的裝飾藝術時代一樣逐漸失寵。積家曾於二十世紀中後期嘗試復興 Reverso，但未獲顯著成功。直到 1990 年代，在偉大的 Günter Blümlein 的主導下，Reverso 才以我們今日所熟知的姿態重返舞台。
毫無疑問，Blümlein 的名字是現代製錶業最受尊崇的企業家之一。他的職業生涯始於 Diehl，該公司曾是二十世紀初全球最大的鐘錶製造商。之後，他加入 VDO Schindling AG，而該公司於 1978 年收購了萬國與積家。Blümlein 隨後被任命為新成立的製錶部門 Les Manufactures Horlogères 的主管，該部門後來由歷峰集團（Richemont）收購。在他的領導下，萬國得到了大幅現代化革新，其影響延續至今。於此期間，他還肩負起另一項關鍵使命：復興另一家歷史悠久的製錶品牌朗格。可以說，Günter Blümlein 親手參與了世界上數個最偉大鐘錶品牌的重組與復興，這絕非誇大其詞。而他傳奇般的履歷中，積家與 Reverso 同樣佔有一席之地。
Reverso 在二十世紀八十年代中期悄然回歸市場。儘管其獨特的設計頗受歡迎，但距離成為經典象徵仍有漫漫長路。然而，Blümlein 與夥伴 Henri-John Belmont 很快便看出這是一枚璞玉。1991 年，為慶祝 Reverso 問世 60 週年，兩人深知若要讓 Reverso 真正大放異彩，就必須進一步創新。自週年紀念當年開始，在接下來十年間，積家推出了一系列六款限量版腕錶，每款均限量 500 枚。這些型號不僅首次採用了如今成為標準規格的 Grande Taille 大型錶殼，同時也是 Reverso 歷史上首批搭載各類複雜功能的作品。每一款推出後都獲得極大成功，而憑藉這股強勁勢頭，Reverso 終於一飛沖天，並成為今日積家皇冠上的明珠。
鑑於這六款 1990 年代 Reverso 限量版在 Reverso 系列以及積家品牌歷史上都具有舉足輕重的地位，加之 Günter Blümlein 的天才遠見賦予其獨特光彩，更不必說其設計之美與所蘊含的高級製錶工藝，因此它們如今深受收藏家追捧，並被譽為「The Big Six」（六大經典）。蘇富比非常榮幸能夠呈獻這個備受推崇系列中的每一款作品，其中半數更擁有相同錶殼編號，實屬難得。