Cartier, London

Cartier, London

Maxi Pebble

A very rare yellow gold wristwatch with geometric off-set dial and original gold deployant buckle, Circa 1972-73

Dial: cream dial signed Cartier, stretched radial Roman numerals, inner chemin-de-fer minute track, blued steel epée hands

Calibre: 9’’’ circular calibre P838 movement signed Jaeger-LeCoultre, damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, jewelled to the centre, annular balance, flat hairspring, Kif Trior shock absorber

Movement number: numbered to main plate 2’221’824

Case: 18k yellow gold case with polished finish, smooth upper body with invisible bezel, concealed lugs to back, case back secured by four screws, beaded cabochon sapphire-set crown, inside back with London hallmarks and date letter ‘r’ for 1972-73, stamped [JC] for Jean-Jacques Cartier

Case number: outside case back numbered 1’266

Closure: brown unsigned leather strap and original gold deployant buckle, hallmarked London with date letter ‘r’ for 1972-73 and numbered 1’266

Size: 35 mm diameter

Accessories: none

The Cartier London Pebble is one of the brand’s rarest and most iconic designs. Renowned for its smooth, rounded case reminiscent of a pebble, the watch masterfully balances contrasting geometries, with a circular case enclosing a square dial. This harmonious interplay of soft curves and defined angles blends elegance with geometric precision, while the watch’s design ensures it is exceptionally comfortable to wear. The crystal is set flush with the upper case, resulting in a beautifully smooth and seamless surface.

Occasionally nicknamed the “Baseball” due to its resemblance to a baseball diamond, the Pebble embodies Cartier’s penchant for combining sophisticated aesthetics with innovative design principles. Principally crafted in yellow gold, only one example is known in white gold, and just two in a combination of yellow and white gold. Of the ten known examples of the model, most feature concealed lugs that allow the upper case to form a smooth, unbroken edge. However, two examples have so-called ‘turtle’ lugs that partially emerge from the underside of the case. Jean-Jacques Cartier’s chief designer, Rupert Emmerson, is credited with the Pebble’s creation. The earliest known example is believed to be a unique white gold version dating to circa 1969. However, the model is widely thought to have been formally released in 1972, with the majority of known examples hallmarked for the 1972–73 London year cycle.

The Pebble’s clean smooth case body and iconic dial have ensured its enduring appeal among collectors. Its avant-garde aesthetic, defined by the interplay of circular and square geometries, perfectly captures Cartier’s innovative spirit. Each watch was individually handcrafted, a process that imbues every piece with a unique character and further enhances its desirability. The London-made Pebbles, created under the visionary leadership of Jean-Jacques Cartier, stand as a testament to the creative independence of Cartier’s London workshop, solidifying their place among the most sought-after watches in the brand’s storied history. In 2022, Cartier honoured the Pebble’s iconic status with the release of a new limited edition that paid tribute to the original design. Produced in an edition of just 150 pieces, each dial bore the inscription ‘Swiss Made.’

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Exceptionally rare, this watch was originally accompanied by a letter dated 27 July 1989 from the archivist at Cartier London to the previous owner, confirming that approximately 12 examples of the ‘Maxi’ Pebble were produced in the early 1970s. Of these, 9 or 10 are currently accounted for, having been re-offered to the market or published over the last three decades. These examples, including the present watch.

The Pebble’s distinctive lozenge-shaped configuration – a square dial and bezel rotated 45 degrees within a circular case – draws on historical precedents in Cartier’s earlier designs. The 1912 Nain Jaune model, introduced by Louis Cartier, featured a similar concept with a square bezel and dial set within a square case, rotated to create an off-set, diamond-like effect. The London Pebble’s modernist design underscores Cartier London’s commitment to avant-garde watchmaking under Jean Jacques Cartier’s direction, highlighting the branch’s creativity and its ingenious reinterpretation of earlier Cartier designs.