Formerly in the Collection of the Duchess of Windsor (1896-1986)
Pair of Shell and Turquoise Earclips
Auction Closed
November 12, 02:56 PM GMT
Estimate
4,800 - 8,000 CHF
Lot Details
Description
The white and gray mottled Nerita versicolor shells capped by cabochon turquoise tendrils, unsigned; circa 1965.
The Duchess of Windsor (1896-1986)
The Jewels of the Duchess of Windsor, Sotheby's Geneva 2 and 3 April 1987, lot 8.
The Duchess of Windsor
Wallis Warfield Simpson, the Duchess of Windsor (1896-1986) is the jewellery collector who had the most enduring impact on twentieth century jewellery design. Together with the Duke of Windsor, the former King Edward VIII, she purchased highly influential designs such as Cartier’s first three-dimensional panther jewels, the Cartier flamingo brooch and a mystery-set brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels, designed as two feathers.
The sale of the jewels from her estate, held at Sotheby’s Geneva in November 1987, remains a landmark in the history of auctions, creating a sensation both on the strength of its provenance as on the lure of vintage signed jewels. The world did not only get to discover jewels linked to one of the most enigmatic love stories of all time, the Duke of Windsor did after all abdicate the British throne to be with the woman he loved, but the collection built by the couple over their almost forty year-long relationship included some of the most iconic jewellery designs ever created as well as exceptional gemstones. This collection revealed the great sophistication of the Duke and Duchess’ lifestyle during their years of exile in Paris. The Windsors were highly fashionable socialites who elevated living to an art form and were always immaculately attired.
The Duchess possessed several pairs of earclips designed as sea shells embellished with gold and gemstones. Purchased in the mid-1960s, these were distinguished yet lighthearted accessories. Though the current example is unsigned, the Duchess owned three pairs of shell earrings signed David Webb and two pairs of shell earrings with maker’s marks for Darde & Fils, the Parisian workshop closely associated with Suzanne Belperron. Furthermore, shells mounted within a spiral gold setting and terminating in a gemset finial such as these, are a staple of Seaman Schepps, a designer frequented by the Duchess of Windsor.