From the Estate of the Countess of Faber-Castell
attributed to Boucheron
Diamond Tiara/Bracelet Combination
Auction Closed
November 12, 02:56 PM GMT
Estimate
20,000 - 30,000 CHF
Lot Details
Description
Designed as a laurel wreath set with old mine- and old European-cut diamonds, accented by rose-cut diamonds, inner circumference approximately 200mm, detachable to be worn as a bracelet, length approximately 220mm, adjustable to 200, 190 and 170mm, unsigned, French maker's and assay marks for gold; circa 1880. Accompanied by a case stamped Boucheron.
From the Estate of the Countess of Faber-Castell
Gilles Néret, Boucheron - Histoire d'une Dynastie de Joailliers, Fribourg, 1988, p. 13 for a bracelet of similar design by Boucheron enhanced with pearls dated to 1880.
Boucheron and the Laurel Leaf
This diamond tiara/bracelet combination, though unsigned, features a laurel wreath motif that is often associated with Boucheron.
The famous Parisian maison created several jewels incorporating this very theme in the late 19th century. The most famous of these was a necklace composed of two laurel wreaths presented to Princess Margaret of Connaught (1882-1920) as a wedding gift when she married the future King Gustaf VI Adolf of Sweden in 1905. The necklace was a gift from the groom's grandmother Queen Sofia of Sweden (1836-1913) and was inherited by Margaret's son Prince Bertil of Sweden, Duke of Halland (1912-1997). It was subsequently worn as a tiara by his Welsh-born wife Lillian Davies (1915-2013) for many decades. The latter bequeathed the Boucheron tiara to her great-niece Crown Princess Victoria of Sweden who now frequently wears it at glittering state occasions.
Numerous other jewels of this type were created by Boucheron including versions further enhanced with pearls. The fashionable French lyric soprano Geneviève Vix (1879-1939) was also photographed wearing a bandeau of similar design.
The case accompanying the present lot is stamped with Boucheron's address at Palais-Royal where the jeweller was located prior to 1893 when its premises were moved to Place Vendôme, becoming the first major jeweller to establish a presence on the famous square.