Cartier, Paris

Released in 1917, the Cartier Tank was designed by Louis Cartier, inspired by the silhouette of the Renault tanks he had seen on the Western Front during World War I. Arguably one of the most recognizable designs in horological history, the Tank’s rectangular form, refined proportions, and timeless aesthetic have secured its place among the great icons of watchmaking. Within this storied lineage, the Tank Louis Cartier stands out as perhaps the purest expression of the original design. True to Louis Cartier’s 1917 creation, it retains the classical dial and the elegant rounded case sides that extend seamlessly to form the lugs, a defining feature that would inspire generations of Cartier watches to follow, from the Tank Française to the Tank Cintrée and beyond.

This special piece was gifted by Ralph Lauren to his senior advisor and creative director of Ralph Lauren Womenswear, Buffy Birrittella, in 1974. Ralph already owned a similar watch, and when Buffy admired it, he decided to purchase one for her during their first design trip to Paris that November. He presented it to her on Christmas Day that same year.

The gift marked not only their shared success in launching Ralph Lauren’s women’s wear line but also served as a deeply personal token of appreciation for their creative partnership. Ralph knew how much she admired the watch and, in recognition of their three and a half years of working closely together, presented her with this meaningful piece as her first Cartier wristwatch. Buffy later recalled that, at that moment, she felt she had truly “arrived.”

Accompanying the watch are several interchangeable straps in different colors—an essential detail at Ralph Lauren, where accessories were always coordinated with the season’s collections. Buffy kept extra bands so that her watch would perfectly match whatever she was wearing.