Harry Winston

While Harry Winston is frequently lauded as the “King of Diamonds,” this collection invites a deeper understanding of the House’s design philosophy – one that privileges the artistry of composition as much as the rarity of the stones themselves. Winston famously believed that gemstones should be the principal focus, with the mounting serving as a subtle, supportive frame. This approach was inspired by a moment of observation: seeing a holly wreath during one Christmas season, Winston noted how the leaves themselves formed the wreath with little visible support, prompting him to wonder if gemstones, too, could be arranged to define a jewel’s shape with minimal metal. For Winston, the setting was to be an invisible hand, allowing the inherent beauty and character of each stone to command attention. Likewise, he often remarked that, just as a masterpiece painting deserves a frame, so does a remarkable gemstone merit a setting that enhances without overshadowing.

This philosophy found its purest expression in the iconic Winston cluster design, explored in depth throughout this collection. Richly saturated unheated cabochon sapphires (lot 109), highly crystalline Colombian emeralds (lot 113), and exuberant ruby cluster earclips with a matching brooch (lots 105 and 106), exemplify Winston’s mastery in arranging gemstones to maximize their interplay with light and color. Equally striking is a diamond bracelet composed of cluster links, where concentric rows of round diamonds alternate with pear-shaped diamonds, the setting so minimal that the diamonds seem to float uninterrupted across the wrist. Each jewel is meticulously fashioned to emphasize the distinct qualities of its featured stones.

Also among the collection’s highlights is an emerald ring (lot 114), described in the original Harry Winston invoice as a “Gem emerald” – an endorsement that attests to its exceptional color and quality. Equally noteworthy is the Kashmir sapphire ring (lot 110), a piece that underscores both the collector’s and the House’s shared commitment to exceptional stones sourced from origins of celebrated distinction. With their understated simplicity, two classic pear-shaped diamond rings (lots 103 and 112) embody timeless elegance – subtle yet unmistakably Winston – while a diamond wreath brooch (lot 111) alludes to the holly wreath that famously inspired his approach to gemstone setting.

Taken together, these jewels reveal a curatorial perspective rooted in the primacy of the gemstone, the ingenuity of setting, and the continual reinterpretation of signature motifs. The collection stands as a testament to Harry Winston’s enduring influence – not only as a purveyor of legendary gems, but as a visionary whose innovative approach continues to shape the language of American jewelry design.