Attributed to Giacinto Melillo

Archaeological discoveries during the 19^th century at sites such as Pompeii and Herculaneum inspired imitations of gold ornaments from antiquity. The Roman jewelers Castellani sought to achieve the techniques of gold granulation and metalwork developed by the ancient Etruscans. The Castellani shop in Rome became the destination for Grand Tourists seeking mementos of the past. Giacinto Melillo (1845-1915) joined Alessandro Castellani at his workshop in Naples as a teenager with his apprenticeship only partially completed. By 1870 he was managing the workshop on his own and continued to make jewels in the ”Archaeological style.” similar to those in lots 94 and 95, often using ancient hardstone intaglios. He was awarded the Grand Prix and Legion d’Honneur at the Paris Exhibition in 1900. As most jewels by Melillo are unsigned, attributions are typically made on stylistic grounds and by the firm's distinct signed wooden cases, such as the one that previously accompanied the bracelet when the set was offered at Sotheby's New York (17 April 2019 Magnificent Jewels, lot 94). For an informative discussion see “Giacinto Melillo, A Pupil of the Castellani” by Geoffrey Munn, The Connoisseur, Sept. 20, 1977, pages 20-22.