Buccellati

Mario Buccellati’s career began in Milan, where he apprenticed as a teenager at the prestigious Beltrami & Beltrami. Those formative years shaped not only his technical skill but also his aesthetic sensibility, laying the foundation for his eventual leadership of the family firm. In 1919, he took over the firm, renaming it Buccellati and quickly establishing a reputation as a visionary goldsmith. By the early 1920s, his work had captivated Europe’s elite—his distinctive textural surfaces and sculptural sense of form earning him the title “The Prince of Goldsmiths” from poet Gabriele D’Annunzio. Drawing on Renaissance metalwork and the rich decorative arts of Italy, Mario developed a style both opulent and disciplined. His work is characterized by meticulous engraving and delicate piercing, transforming precious metals into compositions that evoke fine fabrics such as tulle, lace, silk, and linen.

The present suite is a rare and complete early example of Mario Buccellati’s artistry, revealing the origins of a design language that would become synonymous with the house. The openwork plaques are elaborately engraved with damask-like plume and rose motifs, centering buttercup settings with subtly twinkling rose-cuts that frame charming, generously proportioned old mine-cut diamonds. The suite balances the weight of its abundant gold with an astonishing sense of lightness: the intricate engraving and openwork create a visual delicacy that offsets the richness of the material, producing an effect at once sumptuous and airy.

Nearly a century later, Buccellati remains a family enterprise, its tradition of masterful goldsmithing passed through generations. This early suite stands as a tangible link to the founder’s vision, showcasing Mario’s experimentation with form while upholding the skill and craftsmanship that continue to distinguish the house today.