Mauboussin

Cf.: Marguerite de Cerval, Mauboussin, Paris, 1992, pg. 118 for an image of the necklace in the display at the 1939 World's Fair.

New York’s World Fair, Flushing Meadows, 30 April 1939 – 31 October 1940

Mauboussin at the 1939 World's Fair

The 1939 World's Fair in New York represented the pinnacle of Mauboussin’s creative prowess in the 1930s, the firm’s most successful and emblematic decade. From the mid-1920s Mauboussin had secured its place amongst the leading jewellery houses in Place Vendôme, creating a bold visual identity by producing extravagant transformable pieces set with coloured – often carved - gemstones.

By the mid-1930s, jewellery was evolving away from the geometric patterns set with white diamonds that typified art deco towards voluminous, asymmetrical, scroll and floral motifs set with a variety of colourful cabochon gemstones. Mauboussin was at the forefront of this evolution as exemplified by their flamboyant jewels displayed at the 1939 World's Fair. When the World’s Fair opened in April 1939, it expressed optimism for a bright, prosperous future using the slogan ‘Dawn of a New Day’. Unfortunately by the time it closed in October 1940 after two seasons, the world was firmly embroiled in a disastrous war.

At the World's Fair, Mauboussin exhibited in the French Pavilion which received over 16 million visitors. The American audience regarded Mauboussin as synonymous with elegance and luxury. Publicity and the emerging medium of cinema were a cornerstone of Mauboussin’s public image. Nowhere was this more apparent than in its partnership with the American jeweller Trabert & Hoeffer. For a short time during the so-called Golden Age of Hollywood in the late 1930s, Trabert & Hoeffer - Mauboussin was America’s premier jeweller who supplied the most aspirational silver screen stars with fabulous treasures. Marlene Dietrich wore her personal emerald and diamond bracelet and brooch by Mauboussin in the films 'Desire' (1936) and 'Angel' (1937), Claudette Colbert wore an extravagant ruby and diamond necklace in 'The Gilded Lily' (1935), Madeleine Carroll sported a transformable sapphire and diamond necklace/brooch combination in 'It’s All Yours' (1937) and Mauboussin also supplied all the jewels seen in the film 'Vogues of 1938' (1937) starring Joan Bennett. Furthermore, the year 1939 marked the height of Hollywood’s achievements as countless classic films were released that year including the civil war epic 'Gone With The Wind', the socially conscious comedy 'Mr Smith Goes to Washington', the immortal fantasy musical 'The Wizard of Oz', the literary drama 'Wuthering Heights' and the western 'Stage Coach'. 

In terms of creative innovation and celebrity, Mauboussin was at its very peak when partaking in the 1939 World's Fair. Exceedingly few pieces from this ambitious collection are known to have survived intact to this day. Therefore, this magnificent – and most probably unique - necklace stands as an important testimony to Mauboussin’s oeuvre during this turning point in history.