Breguet

In the throes of the 1970s Quartz Crisis—a pivotal period when the rise of inexpensive, battery-powered watches from Japan posed an existential threat to traditional Swiss horology—many storied maisons sought to reaffirm their identity and relevance. For Breguet, the answer lay not in imitation, but in innovation rooted in tradition. Recognizing that quartz technology could not rival the sophistication of haute complications, Breguet turned to its rich legacy and mastery of mechanical craftsmanship. At the heart of this revival was a young Daniel Roth, who joined Breguet in 1975 with the mission of restoring the brand’s former glory.

Drawing inspiration from a pocket watch he had designed during his formative years, Roth created Reference 3050—a masterpiece of mechanical elegance that paid tribute to Breguet’s storied past while ushering in a new era.

Housed in an impressively slim 8 mm case with a 36 mm diameter, Reference 3050 showcases a beautifully symmetrical dial layout. Crafted in silvered gold and adorned with a delicate clou de Paris guilloché pattern, the dial is a hallmark of Breguet’s artisanal excellence. Beneath the dial beats a thin automatic movement powering a full perpetual calendar—one of the most revered complications in horology. The refined finishing and balanced architecture speak to the extraordinary level of craftsmanship involved; at the time, it is believed that only two to three examples of the reference were completed per year due to the immense labor required, spanning more than thirty specialist crafts. Following the success of the 3050, Roth would go on to design the Reference 3310 in 1986, which introduced a power reserve indicator while evolving the clean, symmetrical dial layout of its predecessor.

The present example, cased in platinum, is a particularly rare and refined iteration of Reference 3050. Preserved in excellent condition, it not only embodies the enduring values of haute horlogerie but also represents a key chapter in the modern renaissance of Breguet. An exceptional addition to any discerning collection, this watch offers both historical significance and timeless sophistication.