Patek Philippe

In 1932, the world was introduced to a gentlemen’s dress watch that will go on to define all dress watches. With the introduction of the Reference 96, Patek Philippe & Cie unveiled a timeless time only wristwatch that went on to set the benchmark for dress watches in the decades to come with its modern and understatedly luxurious design that addresses both form and function. With time, the collection of beautiful, time only wristwatches by Patek that followed the form of the Reference 96 will go on to be named the Calatrava. 

In 1887, Patek Philippe chose the symbol of the Calatrava cross to register as a trademark along with the name Patek Philippe & Cie. While the Calatrava name was not associated with a particular model until the 1980s, the term Calatrava has been retrospectively applied to Patek Philippe’s simple time-only watches from the 1930s beginning with Reference 96. 

The timelessness of this design gave the Calatrava its lasting power. As of today, Calatrava, is the oldest collection still available in the Patek Philippe catalogue since the brand’s inception.

An iconic example of the Calatrava line up, the Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 3520 was introduced in 1965 as the thinnest waterproof watch. Over the course of its 25 year production, it was produced in two series, first powered by the calibre 175 and subsequently the 177 in 1977. Our current example houses the calibre 175 and is based on the ultra-thin Frederic Piguet calibre 21 also utilized by Cartier for their ultra thin wristwatches. The 3520 is perhaps most well known for introducing the Clous de Paris hobnail style bezel decoration. However, it was first only available with a sleek, flat bezel like our present example.

Presented in wonderful condition and complete with box and papers, the present lot represents an icon in the Patek Philippe’s Calatrava line up.