Breitling

In the early 1980s, Breitling was approached by the Italian Air Force’s elite aerobatic team, the Frecce Tricolori, in search of a robust yet refined mechanical chronograph suited for fighter jet pilots. The ideal timepiece needed to withstand the rigors of the cockpit while maintaining a level of elegance suitable for wear off-duty. One unique challenge faced by pilots was the frequent damage to watch crystals caused by opening and closing aircraft canopies.

Breitling responded with a functional and innovative solution: a recessed crystal protected by four raised “rider tabs” positioned at the 15-minute intervals on the bezel. The design not only offered protection but added a distinctive aesthetic. Impressed by both the durability and style, the Frecce Tricolori adopted the watch for its team. The design quickly gained wider acclaim and, in 1984, Breitling launched it to the public as the Chronomat.

The Chronomat’s defining features, rider-tab bezel, oversized “onion” crown for easy grip, and the distinctive metal “Rouleaux” bracelet, have since become enduring hallmarks of the model, cementing its place as one of Breitling’s most iconic and collectible timepieces.