
Collier or, turquoise, lapis lazuli et diamant | Gold, turquoise, lapis lazuli and diamond necklace
Auction Closed
March 26, 04:38 PM GMT
Estimate
15,000 - 30,000 EUR
Lot Details
Description
Formant un bandeau souple composé de spirales et d'un tressage en or, retenant des perles de turquoise rehaussées de rondelles de lapis lazuli et orné de diamants taille brillant incrustés dans des disques de lapis lazuli, circonférence intérieure 290 mm environ, poinçons français pour l'or 18K (750°/00), poinçon de maître, poids brut 203.86 g.
Designed as a flexible band composed of gold spirals and meshed gold, suspending turquoise pearls enhanced with lapis lazuli rondelles, decorated with brilliant-cut diamonds inset in lapis lazuli disks, inner circumference approximately 290mm, French assay marks for 18 carat gold, maker's mark, gross weight 203.86 grams.
The hallmark of Georges Lenfant was first registered on the 22nd of November, 1909. Later, in 1935, it was re-registered under the name of Société Georges Lenfant. It is worth noting that Georges Lenfant's career was briefly interrupted during the tumultuous years of World War I, when he was mobilized, forcing the closure of his workshop between 1914 and 1918.
The workshop, an atelier of remarkable craftsmanship, was originally established in 1899 under the name Duparc, Lenfant & Compagnie. At its inception, the business specialized in the art of chain-making, a craft that laid the foundation for its later prominence. Its addresses over time included 47 rue des Petits-Champs in the 1st arrondissement of Paris, 31 rue Danielle Casanova in the 2nd, and 72 rue des Archives in the 3rd arrondissement, all situated in the heart of Paris’s artisanal and jewelry districts.
In the early 20th century, the workshop produced watch chains, primarily for Cartier, and later expanded its collaborations to include illustrious houses such as Van Cleef & Arpels, Sandoz, Hermès, Bulgari, Tiffany & Co., Mellerio, Mauboussin, René Boivin, Fred, and Gübelin, among others. Over time, the name Georges Lenfant became synonymous with exquisite craftsmanship, with the atelier not only creating pieces for these prestigious names but also producing jewelry under its own signature.
A turning point came in 1927, when Georges Lenfant acquired the Gustave Sandoz company, retaining Gustave’s son, Gérard, as the artistic director for a brief period. That same year, Lenfant’s son, Jacques (1904–1996), joined the workshop, bringing fresh energy and a vision for the future. In the years that followed, Georges Lenfant also took over the renowned Verger Frères workshop, further solidifying his influence in the world of fine jewelry.
By the 1930s, the workshop had shifted its focus to gold jewelry, establishing itself as a premier name in the field. After the upheavals of World War II, Jacques Lenfant assumed leadership of the atelier, continuing its legacy of excellence. Upon Jacques’ passing, the storied workshop passed into new hands, acquired by Maison Bouder, marking the end of an era for one of Paris’s most respected jewelry ateliers.