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Vivianna Torun Bülow- Hübe

Wood, Brass and Leather Necklace

Lot Closed

November 28, 01:38 PM GMT

Estimate

8,000 - 12,000 GBP

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Lot Details

Description

Formed of arrow-shaped carved wood, with brass details and clasp, on a leather necklace.

  • Length approximately 410mm
  • Signed Torun
  • Circa 1948
  • Gross weight approximately 27.0 grams

Ann Westin, Torun - Conversation with Vivianna Torun Bülow Hübe, Carlsson Bokförlag, 1993, p 27 see similar pieces shown hanging on the wall in the studio.

Vivianna Torun Bülow-Hübe (1927 – 2004) was one of the most prominent female silversmiths of the 20th century and was the first female silversmith in Sweden to own her own workshop. In 1948, Torun began creating what she called anti-status jewellery incorporating pebbles, granite, rocks and less valuable semi-precious stones such as moonstone into her work. She intended her jewellery not to show off a husband's wealth, and to instead accentuate the wearer, believing that jewellery ‘must not overwhelm, but enhance you. This is why it must be timeless. It shouldn't matter if you are 17 or 87 years old’. This Unique Wood Necklace demonstrates her radical approach: rather than precious stones, she preferred basic or rough materials such as rattan, wood, beach pebbles, granite, rock crystal, and moonstone, uniting them to create original and subversive designs. A similar wooden example is in the collection of the NationalMuseum Sweden (NMK 44/2012).


On November 5, 1992, Torun was awarded the Prince Eugen medal by King Carl XVI Gustav of Sweden. The medal is bestowed for outstanding artistic achievement. She had a number of well known clients such as Brigette Bardot and Billie Holiday.