JAR

JAR’s characteristic pavé settings are typically executed in oxidized silver on gold backings, allowing gemstones to completely dominate the jewels. As Pierre Jeannet writes in the book for the 2013 retrospective, “Perfect technique must disappear, leaving visible only the ease of beauty.” To add more life and visual interest, gemstones of different hues, saturations, sizes and shapes are integrated, sometimes creating an almost hallucinogenic effect. This setting technique finds its precedent in the silver and gold mountings of the 19^th century which featured closely set old mine- and rose-cut diamonds. In an additional nod to the past, he opts for single-cut or, in French, ‘huit-huit’ diamonds when the stones are employed in a complementary fashion, a subtle alternative to the sparkle of the modern round brilliant.  

Location courtesy of M. Olivier Baroin, Image #6.

JAR

‘These three, beauty, art and luxury are inseparable from happiness.’ - Joel Arthur Rosenthal

Joel Arthur Rosenthal (born 1943) is undeniably the most influential jewelry designer of our time. With his infallible eye for beauty, he has created a body of work that has inspired many to emulate his style and techniques, fundamentally changing our understanding of what jewelry can be.

Rosenthal, who initially aspired to become a painter, studied art history and philosophy at Harvard University. After graduation, he moved to Paris in 1966 where he worked as a screenwriter and needlepoint artist. His skill with the latter was such that Hermès commissioned him to design a pair of needlepoint slippers, but he quickly shifted his focus to jewelry design. After working briefly for Bulgari in New York, he returned to Paris where, in 1977, he founded his eponymous atelier ‘JAR’ with his partner, the Swiss-born Pierre Jeannet. From the start, JAR realized the importance of remaining exclusive: his store just off the Place Vendôme has no shop windows to attract customers—there is no need—and entrance is by invitation only, reserved for those who understand and share his philosophy of beauty.

JAR’s work has been the subject of two highly acclaimed solo exhibitions, the first at Somerset House in London in 2002 which featured several jewels from this extraordinary private collection. The dimly lit galleries required flashlights to view the jewels, fostering a sense of discovery and eliciting a feeling of reverence. The second exhibition was held at New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art in 2013, making Rosenthal the only living jeweler to receive a retrospective at the legendary institution.   

Several themes thread through JAR’s oeuvre. First and foremost, his use of color, often through the use of gemstones beyond the traditional big four. Secondly, his meticulous pavé and micro-pavé settings that often lends his jewels a painterly quality. His use of oxidized silver on gold, natural pearls and single-cut diamonds hark back to antique examples while his exploration of heat-patinated titanium and aluminum was nothing short of revolutionary. Other recurring themes include mismatched earrings, quatrefoils and exuberant—sometimes fantastical—representations of nature. All of these key elements are represented throughout this exquisite collection, each jewel a modern masterpiece.