The GOAT Collection: Watches & Treasures from Tom Brady

The GOAT Collection: Watches & Treasures from Tom Brady

View full screen - View 1 of Lot 34. TBXII Grand Complication | Retailed by Tiffany & Co.: A yellow gold open faced minute repeating perpetual calendar split-seconds chronograph watch with moon phases, Made in 1917.

Patek Philippe

TBXII Grand Complication | Retailed by Tiffany & Co.: A yellow gold open faced minute repeating perpetual calendar split-seconds chronograph watch with moon phases, Made in 1917

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11:52:13

December 11, 12:30 AM GMT

Estimate

200,000 - 400,000 USD

Lot Details

Description

Dial: eggshell, Roman numerals, Breguet hands, stamped 174’574

Caliber: 19’’ ligne movement, 42 jewels, guillame balance, stamped 'Extra'

Movement number: 174’574

Case: 18k yellow gold, hinged cuvette and concealed case back 

Case number: 174’574

Size: 53.5 mm diameter

Signed: case and dial signed by Patek Philippe and Tiffany & Co., dial numbered, and movement signed Made for Tiffany & Co. by Patek Philippe

Box: no

Papers: no

Accessories: custom made Linley presentation box stamped ‘TBXII’, and Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming the date of sale on 12 May 1917

Grand complications are considered the pinnacle of traditional watchmaking. To qualify to be a Grand Complication, a watch must contain at least three complications from the world of horology. FIrst, an astronomical function (such as a perpetual calendar with moon phases), second, a striking mechanism (such as a minute repeater), and lastly a complication with the divisions of time (such as a chronograph). According to Patek Phiilippe, "The complications traditionally found in a Grand Complication watch are minute repeating, split seconds chronograph and perpetual calendar with moon phases." The era of Patek Philippe Grand Complications started in the late 19th century and culminated in the early 2othe century, the Golden Age of Grand Complications. Since 1874, it is believed that less than 100 Grand Complication Patek Philippe watches with split seconds chronograph have surfaced in all configurations. On average less than two watches of this magnitude were manufactured by Patek Philippe per year. With such small production, Patek Philippe awarded the best pieces to their most important clients, notably Henry Graves, Jr. and James Ward Packard who bought an almost similar example of the presently offered piece in 1922. It is well known that Patek Philippe focused on its most important market from this era, the United States, to sell these extraordinary objects. And it is no coincidence that this best of the best horological masterpiece containing the GOAT of horological complications would catch the eye of Tom Brady to add to his collection. 

 

This massive Extra quality example is unique in that it is triple signed Tiffany & Co, has a massive 53.5 mm diameter, has 42 jewels, and a rare and important caliber that was developed from a Victorin Piguet ebauch, the same ebauch maker as the Henry Graves Supercomplication.


The Movement:

 This Grand Complication's movement represents the highest end watchmaking of the early 20th century and some of the most cutting edge technology of the era. This watch's movement, based on a Victorin Piguet ebauche, is 1/4 plate with offset center wheel and split seconds mechanism on the dial side of the plate. It was constructed with a newly designed chronograph mechanism that was developed with a large triangular bridge that first appeared in 1915. For a similar piece, please see the Patek Philippe Museum book, Vol. 1, p. 425. All the known GrandComplication pocket watches produced in this era contain either 16, 17, 18, or 19 lignes ebauches from Victorin Piguet. It is important to know this 19 lignes ebauch was the largest that Victorin Piguet offered in regular production. This massive caliber, finished to Patek Philippe's high specifications, is signed EXTRA, meaning that this watch was Extra quality, the highest standard offered by Patek Philippe during this time period.

 

Victorin Piguet

 The legendary Victorin Piguet is best known for making early chronograph, minute repeater and perpetual calendar ébauches for Patek Philippe, and was also instrumental to the company’s development and manufacturing of some of the most important timepieces ever made including the Henry Graves Supercomplication. Victorin Piguet enjoyed a special relationship with Patek Philippe because it partnered on particularly complicated movements. It is this trust and mutual respect that resulted in legendary timepieces like the Graves Supercomplication, the Packard Grand Complications, and the presently offered TBX11 Grand Complication. For an almost identical example made for James Ward Packard, see Patek Philippe Museum, Vol. II, page 146-147. 

 

Tiffany & Co.

 It is no secret that the most discriminating American complicated watch buyers chose Tiffany & Co. as their retailer of choice in the early 2oth century. From Grand Complications to the Supercomplication, Patek Philippe worked with Tiffany & Co. to reach the wealthiest clients in the United States, clients with the knowledge, taste, and means to buy the best. During the late 19th and early 20th century, it was a constant battle between Patek Philippe & Tiffany to determine which name should appear on the dial and the presently offered watch is the perfect example to show this evolving discussion. During the 19th century, it was common to have the name Patek Philippe hidden from view for purchasers of important Patek Philippe watches, during the early 20th century we see mentions of both the retailer and maker, and by the late 20th century, we see the name Patek Philippe, now firmly established on almost all dials made by the firm for Tiffany. The reasoning is that early on Tffany & Co. was much more well known to American buyers and over time the name Patek Philippe started to mean more to American buyers as they came to understand the brand. The TB XII Grand Complication features a triple signed Tiffany & Co. case, dial and movement. The movement is proudly signed "Made for Tiffany & Co. by Patek Philippe & Co. Switzerland". The case is signed "Tiffany & Co." as well as "Patek Philippe & Co." and the dial is signed "Tiffany & Co" with a later signature "Patek Philippe" believed to be added in the mid 20th century by Patek Philippe during a service. 

 

The TBXII Box 

 Inspired by the exquisite custom boxes made by Patek Philippe for the complicated watches made for Henry Graves, Jr., the TBXII Grand Complication has a custom box made to house this important timepiece, Made by LINLEY, the box itself is a work of art of blue birch and the perfect way to display this timepiece and listen to the striking of the minute repeater. LINLEY was founded by David Linley in 1985 and has a world-renowned reputation for fusing striking design with exemplary craftsmanship. Though it began modestly, it created an immediate stir, not least because David was the son of Princess Margaret (sister of Queen Elizabeth II) and celebrated photographer, Lord Snowdon.