Magnificent Jewels

Magnificent Jewels

View full screen - View 1 of Lot 69. A Highly Attractive Gold and Diamond 'Zip Antique Festons' Necklace-Bracelet Combination, France.

Property of an International Collector

Van Cleef & Arpels

A Highly Attractive Gold and Diamond 'Zip Antique Festons' Necklace-Bracelet Combination, France

Auction Closed

June 7, 04:43 PM GMT


300,000 - 500,000 USD

Lot Details


Of zip design, set with round diamonds, gross weight approximately 101 dwts, internal circumference 17¼ inches, adjustable, detachable for wear as 6⅞-inch bracelet, necklace signed Van Cleef & Arpels, bracelet fitting signed VCA, each numbered JH006191, with French and Swiss assay marks and maker's marks; circa 2018.

Taking the ordinary and transforming it into the extraordinary; this spirit of ingenuity has resulted in some of the most masterful jewels in history. Perhaps one of the most iconic and truly original jewels created is the ‘Zip’ necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels. Renée Puissant, the Maison’s artistic director from 1926 to 1942 and daughter of Alfred Van Cleef, was commissioned by the Duchess of Windsor in 1938 to create a sophisticated jewel inspired by the humble zip fastener, invented in America in the late 19th century. After tireless experimentation and meticulous attention to detail, the first zip necklace wasn’t introduced until almost twelve years later, by which time the Duchess’ interest had diminished and the jewel never entered her collection. The necklace features a functional zipper motif that can be opened and closed, allowing it to be worn in multiple ways, as a necklace or as a bracelet. The ‘Zip” here (lot 69), created circa 2018, is a particularly attractive example. Its warm gold finish and gorgeous flexibility are reminiscent of its mid-20th century predecessors while its diamond-set “festoons” lend an aspect of luxuriant femininity. With its rich history and exceptional craftsmanship, the Van Cleef & Arpels ‘Zip’ necklace remains to this day a symbol of style, creativity and innovation.