Important Watches: Part I
Important Watches: Part I
Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked, Reference 25636PT.OO.0344PT.01 | A platinum skeletonized perpetual calendar with moon phases and bracelet | Circa 1990
Auction Closed
May 12, 11:39 AM GMT
Estimate
200,000 - 300,000 CHF
Lot Details
Description
Dial: skeletonized
Calibre: cal. 2120/2800 automatic, 36 jewels
Movement number: 324'247
Case: platinum, sapphire crystal display case back secured by 8 screws
Case number: C77'660, n°16
Closure: platinum Audemars Piguet Gay Frères bracelet and 18k white gold clasp
Size: 39 mm diameter, bracelet circumference approximately 190 mm
Signed: case, dial and movement
Box: no
Papers: no
Accessories: Audemars Piguet Digital Extract from the Archives
The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar debuted in 1983 as the reference 5554, later known as the 25554, marking the brand's foray into melding luxury with functionality.
Among the numerous iterations of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, the Reference 25636PT stands as a collector's gem. Faithful to the original Jumbo model, it boasts a 39mm platinum case. What sets this model apart is its breathtaking skeletonized dial, revealing the intricate under-dial workings. The blue subsidiary dials and outer track not only add a pleasing contrast but also enhance readability, making timekeeping a joyous experience.
This rare platinum variant features a transparent dial adorned with blue indicators and hands, showcasing the day, date, astronomical moon, and month. The inclusion of the original "Audemars Piguet" signature recalls the early days of the reference 25636, adding a touch of nostalgia to this exquisite timepiece.
Limited to a mere 264 examples in various metal combinations, with only 34 in platinum like the present example, the ref. 25636 represents a convergence of rarity and craftsmanship. Its introduction marked a departure from convention, as Audemars Piguet merged the sporty Royal Oak case with the complexity of a perpetual calendar movement.
The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar series, epitomized by the Reference 25636PT, with its limited production and distinctive features, including a skeletonized dial and platinum case, embodies the perfect fusion of luxury and functionality.