Important Watches: Part I

Important Watches: Part I

View full screen - View 1 of Lot 48. A unique pre-brand minute repeating perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phases | Circa 1992.

Franck Muller

A unique pre-brand minute repeating perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phases | Circa 1992

Auction Closed

May 12, 11:39 AM GMT


50,000 - 100,000 CHF

Lot Details


Dial: silvered

Calibre: manual winding, jewelled

Case: 18k yellow gold, snap-on case back

Case number: N°1

Closure: 18k gold plated unsigned buckle

Size: 37.5 mm diameter

Signed: dial signed Franck Genève and case signed Jean-Pierre Hagmann

Box: no

Papers: no

Accessories: setting pin and Jean-Pierre Hagmann Certificate confirming production of the case


Please note the leather strap derived from endangered species is for display purposes only and is not sold with the watch. The watch will be shipped with a Sotheby’s branded calf leather strap.

There is certainly more than meets the eye about this particular watch. Upon first glance one perhaps notices that it is a perpetual calendar, a second might uncover the slide to the case band denoting it is minute repeating. Upon closer inspection however one will see the dial is signed 'Franck, Geneve' and a look at the case back will reveal the watch is numbered 1. As such it becomes clear that this is very early and very complicated pre-brand wristwatch by Franck Muller, a unique example in fact, the only one of its kind assembled in 1992.

What is more, inside, once the snap-on case back is prised off, one will find a stamp ‘JHP’. To many this will be recognised as a simple case makers stamp but to the discerning it has a far greater meaning. It is the mark in fact of Jean-Pierre Hagmann, casemaker to the greatest brands and their most prized pieces such as Patek Philippe’s Star Calibre 2000. 

It is a watch full of intrigue and historical importance that, while not immediately obvious, lends the watch a charm, the extent of which is rarely found.

We would like to thank Monsieur Hagmann for his assistance in the research of this piece.