
Submariner, Reference 1680 | A stainless steel wristwatch with date and bracelet | Circa 1971
Auction Closed
November 10, 01:01 PM GMT
Estimate
7,000 - 12,000 CHF
Lot Details
Description
Dial: black
Calibre: cal. 1570 automatic, 26 jewels
Movement number: D’885’558
Case: stainless steel, screw-down case back
Case number: 2’652’707
Closure: stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet and folding clasp
Size: 40 mm diameter, bracelet circumference approximately 180 mm
Signed: case, dial and movement
Box: no
Papers: no
Accessories: none
Perhaps the most recognisable and iconic watch in the world, the lineage of the Submariner with date stretches back half a century, and began with the reference 1680. Setting the trend for dive watch features that are now taken as standard, these watches featured rotating black aluminium bezels pioneered by the previous generation of Rolex submariners, but adding a date window with a cyclops lens at 3 o’clock.
Early serial numbers of the reference should feature dials with the famous 'Red' Submariner text. The present watch does indeed fall into that serial range, however the dial text is all white. This leads us to conclude that the dial was swapped out at some point by Rolex during a service, but this would have taken place very early on as the replacement dial fitted to the watch today still retains tritium plots without white gold surrounds.
The lume plots and hands have aged to an even and attractive beige colour, and despite the fact that the original 'Red Sub' dial is no longer present, is still attractive and full of vintage flavour.