View full screen - View 1 of Lot 136. Reference 1680 Submariner | A yellow gold automatic wristwatch with date, bracelet, and tropical nipple dial, Circa 1975.

Rolex

Reference 1680 Submariner | A yellow gold automatic wristwatch with date, bracelet, and tropical nipple dial, Circa 1975

Auction Closed

December 6, 09:17 PM GMT

Estimate

40,000 - 60,000 USD

Lot Details

Description

Dial: tropical brown

Caliber: cal. 1570 automatic, 26 jewels

Case: 18k yellow gold, screw down case back 

Case number: 4'092'906

Closure: 18k yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet with folding clasp 

Size: 40 mm diameter, bracelet circumference is approximately 185 mm 

Signed: case, dial and movement 

Box: yes

Papers: no

Accessories: Rolex presentation box with outer packaging, leather cardholder, Official Chronometer Certification booklet, and polishing cloth

The reference 1680 was the first Submariner to feature a date function—a practical addition for everyday wear, even if less essential for diving. Released in 1967, the 1680 quickly became the most versatile and popular Submariner. Its success led Rolex to surprise the world in 1969 by introducing the Submariner Date in luxurious 18K yellow gold.


This release marked the first Rolex sports watch cased in solid gold, symbolizing opulence and exclusivity. Available with either a black dial/black bezel or blue dial/ blue bezel, it paved the way for the decadent combinations Rolex is known for today.


Rolex experimented with black and blue dials featuring gold lettering. Unbeknownst to the brand, a pigmentation issue caused blue dials to change over time, transforming into rich purples, deep navy blues, or warm brown hues, such as the present example. This particular lot features a stunning tawny dial with a matching tropical bezel, adding to its unique character and timeless appeal.