Andrew Grima

Lyon & Turnbull, Sculptured: The Art of the Object, 28th of November 2018

Andrew Grima (1921–2007), a charismatic figure in 1960s British jewellery, defied convention with his imaginative and visionary designs. Despite being entirely self-taught, Grima, originally from Rome, honed his skills in mechanical engineering in London and later served with the Royal Engineers during World War II. Post-war, he embarked on a journey in the accounts division of his father-in-law’s jewelry firm in London, eventually transitioning to the design department.

He was noted by Graham Hughes, Art Director of the Goldsmiths’ Company, as having cast and assembled the jewellery designs of famous British sculptors such as Elisabeth Frink for the International Exhibition of Modern Jewellery 1890-1961. This was facilitated by his workshop, H.J. Company, in Gray’s Inn, which is stamped onto Grima’s early works.

His creative vision knew no bounds; his bold and unconventional designs incorporated colourful gems, often in their rough crystal form, juxtaposed against vibrant yellow gold textured settings.

Grima's daring designs captured the attention of a discerning audience earning him a devoted following. Prince Philip gave Queen Elizabeth II a remarkable ruby and diamond brooch, known as the Scarab brooch in 1966, which she subsequently wore for a series of anniversary portraits.

Other notable figures such as Princess Margaret, Jackie Kennedy Onassis, Ursula Andress, and Estée Lauder sought out his distinctive creations. Notably, in 2012, Estée Lauder’s White Gold and Diamond Pendant-Brooch fetched double its estimated value at the Sotheby's New York Magnificent Jewels sale. Today, Grima is hailed as one of the pre-eminent modern jewellery designers of the 20th century. His legacy endures, with his work displayed at the Victoria & Albert Museum and fashion luminaries such as Marc Jacobs and Miuccia Prada counting themselves among his avid collectors.