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Property from a Private Chicago Collection

Tiffany & Co.

Ruby and Diamond Ring

Auction Closed

December 5, 06:23 PM GMT

Estimate

80,000 - 120,000 USD

Lot Details

Description

Of geometric design, featuring an octagonal step-cut ruby weighing 1.98 carats, embellished with calf's head-shaped, French- and single-cut diamonds, size 6¼, signed Tiffany & Co.; circa 1930.


Accompanied by Gübelin report no. 23102072 dated October 18, 2023 stating that the ruby is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating.

The ascendant Tiffany & Co. was in peak form during the first quarter of the 20th century. This dynamic period witnessed a sea change between the naturalistic and romantic themes of the Art Nouveau movement and the bold sophistication of Art Deco. The present lots elegantly juxtapose the primary characteristics of these distinct aesthetic languages.


The earlier sapphire ring, circa 1910-1915, makes best use of Tiffany’s renowned prowess in gem selection by centering an exquisite Kashmiri cushion-cut sapphire within a delicate foliate motif setting. The intricate detail is readily apparent upon close inspection and yet the finished jewel is demure, letting the gem’s vibrant blue hue capture one’s attention.


The later ruby ring, circa 1925-1930, is a quintessential Art Deco masterpiece. The center ruby is faceted in a rarely seen emerald cut style to take full advantage of its exceptional color and clarity. The surrounding calibré cut diamonds feature stark geometric forms in a stunning achromatic mosaic background adding contrast for the crimson center.