Cartier

Iconic diamond, onyx and emerald necklace/brooch, 'Panthère', 1980s | 卡地亞 'Panthère' 鑽石、縞瑪瑙及祖母綠項鏈/胸針，1980年代

VAT applies to hammer price and buyer's premium

Auction Closed

May 16, 05:44 PM GMT

Estimate

300,000 - 600,000 CHF

Lot Details

Description

Property of a Lady

Iconic diamond, onyx and emerald necklace/brooch, 'Panthère', Cartier, 1980s

卡地亞 'Panthère' 鑽石、縞瑪瑙及祖母綠項鏈/胸針，1980年代

Pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds and polished onyx, the front designed as a panther with a polished onyx nose and pear-shaped emerald eyes, inner circumference approximately 350mm, central motif detachable and can be worn as a brooch with additional brooch fitting, signed Cartier, numbered, French maker's and assay marks for gold and platinum.

Accompanied by a copy of the original Cartier invoice.

One of the most renowned designs by Cartier is the Panther, first inspired when Louis Cartier commissioned a painting, Woman with a panther, by George Barbier in 1914. Booming alongside the panther craze of the 20^thcentury, Cartier incorporated the panther's distinct print into a bracelet wristwatch, which would become the first ever piece of the legendary ‘Panthère' collection. This panther thematic blossomed as a result of the love story and partnership between Louis Cartier and Jeanne Toussaint. In 1917, Cartier gifted Toussaint an onyx vanity case that featured the Maison's first full-body panther, paying homage to Toussaint’s nickname ‘La Panthère' esteemed for her elegance. Toussaint eventually became the artistic director of Cartier High Jewellery in 1933, incorporating the panther motif and adding a dynamic sense to their creations.

Notable collectors such as the Duchess of Windsor, Daisy Fellowes, Princess Nina Aga Khan, and Barbara Hutton have each commissioned Cartier for their own exclusive ‘Panthère' jewels.