Chanel

Handbags & Accessories 

The Personal Collection of Frances Patiky Stein

Online Sale, Paris

14-27 September 2023 • 14:00 CEST

 Sotheby’s is thrilled to present the Personal Collection of Frances Patiky Stein : A selection of Chanel Costume Jewellery and Handbags owned by the Fashion icon, former Vogue US Editor and Head of Accessories at Chanel. The 48 lots will be auctioned in Paris during the Luxury Edit 14 - 27 September 2023. 

Preserved in her Rue de Varenne Appartement, this beloved Costume Jewelry and Handbags collection presents Frances Patiky Stein’s attachment to Chanel’s legacy and reflects her personal style defined by the NY Times as “classic” with an “affinity for the muted tones – beige, sand, taupe and brown”

Frances’ journey in the fashion cosmos crossed paths with some of the leading personalities within the sphere including Karl Lagerfeld, Halston, Calvin Klein, Beverly Johnson, Rene Russo and André Leon Talley. An inspiring force within the fashion industry, Frances Patiky Stein was described by her protegee Vera Wang as “talented without words, tempestuous and passionate” and credited by Wang herself as one of her biggest influences and sources of motivation.

In an extraordinary showcase of timeless elegance and unparalleled artistry, Sotheby's is thrilled to present the highly anticipated personal collection of handbags and bijoux possessed, cherished and designed by Frances Patiky Stein. This sale of 48 lots, that intricately weave together the taste, life and career of this revered fashion maven, fundamentally celebrates the legacy of a true visionary in the fashion industry. Preserved in her beloved Rue de Varenne apartment, the accessories selected for the sale are objects that quintessentially narrate the story of Frances, her effortless flair and unmatched sophistication.

The 31 lots of eclectic Chanel bijoux reflect a mastery of artistry that transcends time as well as Frances’ love for the maison over the decades.The history of late 20th century Chanel’s costume jewellery is narrated through the pieces. From emblematic camelia ear clips, to opulent faux pearl necklaces to glasswork items crafted at atelier Gripoix and Goossens, this selection presents itself as a real anthology of Chanel’s jewellery heritage. Archival pieces from the 1970s and 80s are accompanied by unique silver designs. Setting the taste and trend for silver jewellery in the early 2000s, Frances designed multiple collections for Chanel that merged geometric lines with ethnic tendencies and a refined use of quartz stones. The designer herself was never seen without her silver bangles, Frances’ ultimate signature pieces. Ms. Stein told The Associated Press in 1989. “A bracelet is great if you can pull it on and off and it doesn’t get wound up in a typewriter or dribble in your plate when you are making an elegant gesture.”

The remarkable coherence of her Hermès and Chanel handbags takes shape through warm hues, earthy tones, and harmonious shapes. In perfect alignment with the ambiance of Rue Varenne, these handbags in 16 lots rekindle an intimate connection between themselves and Frances, thereby embodying her distinctiveness both as a designer and a prominent fashion personality. The most iconic Hermès models, which encompass a Brown Kelly 32 Retourné and a Khaki Toile Officier Birkin 30, engage in a dialogue with a diverse array of Chanel bags, ranging from exquisite evening clutches to timeless flap designs. This compilation of bags ultimately mirrors Frances' personal style, characterised by The New York Times as "timeless" with an “affinity for the muted tones – beige, sand, taupe and brown”.

Born in 1937 and raised in America, Frances's upbringing was marked by an artistic flair that blossomed in various forms, including music, theatre, and painting, all of which deeply influenced her style sensibilities. Her journey into the captivating world of fashion was paved when she caught the eye of prominent publications such as Harper's Bazaar, Glamour, and Vogue, eventually becoming the Head of Fashion at Vogue US. Undoubtedly, Frances Patiky Stein's most iconic contributions occurred at Chanel in the 1980s, reinvigorating the brand with her audacious vision. Her designs, marked by refinement, became instantly recognizable symbols of elegance and luxury. Renowned for her strong personality and innovative approach, she remains a captivating force in fashion. The jewellery and handbags in this collection go beyond collectibles, transforming into timeless artefacts cherished across generations.