Erté (Romain de Tirtoff)

Sotheby's London, 22 October 1987, lot 935

Widely celebrated as one of the icons of Art Deco, Erté, made a profound impact on the realms of 20th century fashion, art, theatre, film, and interior design. A pseudonym for Romain de Tirtoff (from the French pronunciation of his initials), he was born in Saint Petersburg in 1892 into an aristocratic Russian family. Growing up in a culturally vibrant environment, he was exposed to the flourishing Russian opera and ballet scenes, which greatly influenced his later work. Erté had no intention of following the family military traditions. Instead, at the age of twenty, he moved to Paris with the aspiration of becoming an artist.

Erté began his artistic career as an illustrator at the House of Paul Poiret, the renowned Parisian couturier. He was self-taught and drew inspiration from contemporary books and magazine illustrations, at a time when draughtsmanship was highly valued throughout Europe. Erté's work always showcased an emphasis on fantastical garments, complemented by his extraordinary attention to detail and refined graphic work. Alongside designing fashionable dresses and outfits, he also assisted Poiret in stage productions heavily influenced by the success of the Ballets Russes in Paris, often incorporating oriental and exotic themes. As he gained more independence, Erté quickly became part of the close circle that dominated Parisian theatrical and artistic life.

With the outbreak of World War I, the fashion industry in Europe came to a halt. Erté sought collaborations in the United States, working with magazines like Vogue and Harper's Bazaar. In 1914, he secured his first significant contract with Harper's Bazaar, resulting in a monthly collaboration that lasted for 20 years and involved designing over 200 covers. He also collaborated with New York's largest luxury department stores, such as Henri Bendel and B. Altman and Company. By the early 1920s, Erté's artistic fame was on an international footing, and he was highly sought after in the world of theatrical extravaganzas and variety performances on both sides of the Atlantic, working for renowned venues like the Folies-Bergères, Bataclan, Alhambra, Bal Tabarin, the Opéra de Paris and Broadway. His gouache works brought vital enrichment to contemporary theatre, combining glamour, luxury, and perfection.

In 1925, Romain signed a contract with Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer Studios in Hollywood, where he created sets and costumes for famous movies of the time, including ‘Ben-Hur’, ‘La Bohème’ and ‘Dance Madness’. He collaborated with some of the greatest stars of the silent screen, such as Carmel Myers, Norma Shearer, Alice Terry among others. Although he did not participate in the 1925 International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts in Paris due to his commitments in Hollywood, Erté's work significantly influenced and contributed to defining and promoting Art Deco; he is considered one of the style’s geniuses.

From 1915, Erté began to meticulously preserve his original drawings, annotating and registering each composition from his prolific career. By his calculations, Erté created over 17,000 drawings. He remained a relentless perfectionist, whether his works were intended for reproduction in magazines and books or for fashion and art purposes. In his first Paris exhibition at Galerie Charpentier in 1926, Erté's drawings were firstly purchased for state collections in recognition of his contribution to French art.

After World War II, the changing artistic and fashion landscape led to a diminished appreciation for Erté's work. Though he continued to work, he did not exhibit his art anywhere after 1939 until the mid-1960s. The resurgence of interest in Art Deco during that time brought renewed attention to Erté's work. The retrospective exhibition ‘Erté and Some of His Contemporaries’ at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York in 1968 celebrated and recognized him as one of the most influential figures of Art Deco. From the late 1960s until his passing in 1990 at the age of 97, Romain continued to showcase his works worldwide, and the production of prints, lithographs, and serigraphs further increased his popularity among the public.

Today, his artworks can be found in prestigious museum collections, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, and the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, as well as in important private collections.