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View full screen - View 1 of Lot 449. Bundeswehr 'T-only', reference 1550 SG     Montre bracelet chronographe flyback en acier |  Stainless steel flyback chronograph wristwatch     Vers 1970 |  Circa 1970.

Tag Heuer

Bundeswehr 'T-only', reference 1550 SG Montre bracelet chronographe flyback en acier | Stainless steel flyback chronograph wristwatch Vers 1970 | Circa 1970

Lot Closed

September 29, 12:37 PM GMT

Estimate

5,000 - 8,000 EUR

Lot Details

Description

Heuer

 

Bundeswehr 'T-only', reference 1550 SG

 

Montre bracelet chronographe flyback en acier |

Stainless steel flyback chronograph wristwatch

 

Vers 1970 |

Circa 1970

 

Cadran: noir

Calibre: cal. Valjoux 230 remontage manuel, 17 rubis

Boîtier: acier, fond sécurisé par 4 vis

Numéro de boîtier: 1'655

Fermoir: bracelet associé en cuir et boucle ardillon en acier

Dimensions: 42 mm

Signé: boîtier, cadran et mouvement                                                                    

Ecrin: non

Papiers: non

Accessoires: aucun


Dial: black

Calibre: cal. Valjoux 230 manual winding, 17 jewels

Case: stainless steel, back secured by 4 screws

Case number: 1'655

Closure: associated leather strap and stainless steel pin buckle

Size: 42 mm

Signed: case, dial and movement

Box: no

Papers: no

Accessories: none

 

Poids brut 74.70 g |

Gross weight 74.70 g

A legend among both the military and chronograph watches, the Heuer Bundeswehr is a collector favorite.

Its name refers to the United Armes Forces of Germany which was at the Soviet border until the fall of the Berlin wall. This army was of upmost importance for the NATO and was equipped with the latest technology available at the time.

This also applied to their watches and Heuer was entrusted to develop the now famous Bunderswehr, which was originally made for pilots but later on available for other branches. Heuer could supply these watches thanks to the acquisition of Leonidas a few years earlier. Leonidas had historically been a supplier to military forces, such as the Italian Air Force, with the CP1 and CP2.

That period was the golden era for Heuer, with Jack Heuer leading the company as the fourth generation. The 1960’s saw the introduction of iconic models such as the Autavia in 1962, the Carrera the following year, the Bundswehr in 1967 and, in 1969, the Monaco with the automatic calibre 11. Still today, they are regarded as landmarks in the history of Heuer and of chronographs generally speaking.

For the Bundeswehr, Heuer did not use the Valjoux 72 but instead the Valjoux 230. This choice can be easily understood as the watch developed for the army and the flyback was a crucial function. Military, whether in their cockpit or on the field, could not afford to lose critical seconds to stop, reset and start again the chronograph while in perilous action.

Beyond the movement, all the key parts of the watch were carefully thought to make this instrument a perfect and reliable companion for their users. The case has a diameter of 42mm with brushed finish, to avoid reflection of the light, and a large crown and two pump pushers easily accessible.

The dial was black with luminescent Arabic indexes and large hands creating a contrast to increase the deadibility. The two subsidiary dials, for the constant seconds and the 30-minute register, are oversized for the same purpose. During the production period, five main dial variations have been produced. The present lot as the rare “T-only” version, referring the absence of the red “3H” and the presence of the tiny T, for tritium, just above the 6. The absence of red brings an extra touch of sophistication to the overall masculine design.

The Heuer Bundeswehr marked the history and the golden era of the chronographs and the manufacture. It is also a testimony of the history of Europe and the world during the second part of the 20th century.

This example is an attractive specimen of this highly collectible model. Collectors will particularly appreciate the “T-only” dial, which is nicely patinated and has been well-preserved, as well as the very clear engravings on the caseback and between the lugs.