Van Cleef & Arpels

Van Cleef & Arpels has always been at the forefront of technical advancement in jewellery design, consistently pushing the boundaries of what was possible. This sapphire and diamond necklace is no exception, combining the zipper and serti mystérieux, two of the most challenging and cutting edge design features in the firm’s history.

During the 1930s the zipper became an avant-garde fashion statement and was made intentionally visible on clothing. In 1938 the Duchess of Windsor first proposed the concept of the zipper being incorporated into a jewel to Van Cleef & Arpels’ artistic director, Renée Puissant. She designed a zipper composed of diamonds mounted in platinum, but it wasn’t until 1951 that the firm produced a jewel with a functional zipper mechanism. It was a transformable model that could be worn open around the neck, or closed as a bracelet, a testament to the maison’s dexterity and everlasting aesthetics.

The iconic serti mystérieux or mystery setting, inspired by nineteenth-century Roman micromosaics, and was first patented by the house in 1933. This seminal design feat involved carving grooves onto the sides of gemstones so that they could be inserted onto a T-rail channel made of gold, rendering the mount invisible. Microscopic precision is needed by the craftsman to achieve the desired outcome. Jewels with flat surfaces were the first to incorporate serti mystérieux, however, the house evolved the technique to be used on curved surfaces such as the sapphire tassel we see here.

The Zip Necklace, a true masterpiece of Van Cleef & Arpels, is the perfect example of the maison’s creativity and capability to transform the everyday into an exquisite jewel. The example offered here is an elegant interpretation of this iconic design.