Lacloche Frères | Etui rubis et diamants | Ruby and diamond case
Lot Closed
March 4, 02:13 PM GMT
Estimate
6,000 - 9,000 EUR
Lot Details
Description
Property of a Gentleman
Lacloche Frères | Etui rubis et diamants
Lacloche Frères | Ruby and diamond case
A motif géométrique, réhaussé de rubis calibrés et de diamants 8/8, le fermoir serti d'un cabochon ovale de rubis, dimensions 88 x 60 x 7 mm environ, signé Lacloche Frères, numéroté, poinçon de maître pour Paul Frey, poinçons français pour l'or 18K (750°/00), poids brut 102.05 g, vers 1920.
Of geometric design, highlighted with calibré-cut rubies and single-cut diamonds, the thumpiece set with an oval ruby cabochon, measuring approximately 88 x 60 x 7mm, signed Lacloche Frères, numbered, maker's mark for Paul Frey, French assay marks for 18 carat gold, gross weight 102.05 grams; circa 1920.
Lacloche Frères, founded by Léopold and Jules Lacloche, was one of the greatest and most renowned jewelry house of the interwar period. Star of the Exposition Universelle des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes of 1925, they were sought for their sumptuous Art Deco jewelry, that still captivate connoisseurs. Forgotten for a long time, Lacloche Frères has been slowly regaining its notoriety among the general public thanks to the retrospective exhibition organized by L’Ecole des arts joailliers and the publication of its first monograph “Lacloche Joailliers”, written by Laurence Mouillefarine and Véronique Ristelhueber, in 2019.
From their installation in Paris in 1892, to the closing of their shop place Vendôme in 1967, Lacloche Frères delighted with their excellence and audacity. Their fame was partly due to their collaboration with skilled craftsmen like Paul Frey. The latter began his career in the sale of gemstones, before becoming the partner of Antoine Touyon, with who he created ladies’ cases and adorned wrists, hands and throats with his know-how. In 1890, Paul Frey was at the helm of the workshop, 19 rue de Richelieu and struck his hallmark (swallow PF). His excellent craftsmanship earned a silver medal at the Exposition Universelle of 1900 and a gold one at the Milan Exhibition six years later.
“A wonderful craftsman, a very good designer.” Paul Frey was an esteemed jeweler and designer, sketching and fabricating pieces for the most illustrious Parisian jewelry houses. For Lacloche Frères, his most infamous creation was a bestiary of handbags, starring a gold mesh bag shaped as a pig and a leather purse in the shape of an owl, highlighted with diamonds, rubies and onyx. Later on, he adapted his owl design to cases and powder compacts.
Strong of his 1st prize for a design competition organized by the Chambre Syndicale, his eldest son, André Frey, pursued the family tradition and opened his own workshop, 8 rue des Victoires. To the delight of the ladies, André showcased his talent through precious Art Deco cases.