Ruby and diamond brooch, 1940s
What is guaranteed?
Designed as a flower, the pistil set with a cabochon ruby, enhanced with circular-cut diamonds, French assay marks and maker's marks, one diamond deficient, pouch stamped Cartier.
Stamped with French assay mark for 18 carat gold and maker's mark GR. Estimated total diamond weight 0.50-1.00 carats. One diamond deficient. Measuring approximately 67 x 51mm. Overall good condition. Gross weight approximately 23.6 grams. Pouch stamped Cartier
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption. Certificates of Authenticity: Various manufacturers may not issue certificates of authenticity upon request. Sotheby's is not under an obligation to furnish the purchaser with a certificate of authenticity from the manufacturer at any time. Unless the requirements for a rescission of the sale under the Terms of Guarantee are satisfied, the failure of a manufacturer to issue a certificate will not constitute grounds to rescind the sale. Gemological Certificates and Reports: References in the catalogue descriptions to certificates or reports issued by gemological laboratories are provided only for the information of bidders, and Sotheby's does not guarantee and accepts no responsibility for the accuracy, terms or information contained in such certificates or reports. Please also note that laboratories may differ in their assessment of a gemstone (including its origin and presence, type and extent of treatments) and their certificates or reports may contain different results .NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.
Cf.: Nadine Coleno, Amazing Cartier, Jewelry Design since 1937, 2009, pg. 384, for an illustration of a brooches of similar design.
Cf.: David Bennett & Daniela Mascetti, Understanding Jewellery, 2003, pg. 384, for an illustration of a brooch of similar design.
A similar brooch by Cartier sold as lot 211 on 18 March 2015 in the London Fine Jewels sale.
Silhouettes of post war jewellery remained voluminous, as was the case in the 1930s, but gone was the preference for platinum, instead gold became the preferred choice of jewellery houses around the world. The world of nature provided ample inspiration and during the 1940s and 50s we see an influx of flowers and foliage motifs being crafted from thin sheets of gold, allowing for simple details such as a scrolled leaf or petal edge. Flowers have always been inextricably entwined in Cartier’s design history, from the garland style of symmetrical naturalistic compositions, the famous Tutti Frutti style of carved gemstones to pieces similar to the one offered here. Late 1940s Cartier designs saw flowers rendered in gold, the stamens, stems or leaves highlighted by coloured gemstones, giving rise to rich, sumptuous and harmonious designs.