Art as Jewelry as Art
Art as Jewelry as Art
Tanzanite and Diamond Ring
Lot Closed
October 6, 06:09 PM GMT
Estimate
12,000 - 15,000 USD
Lot Details
Description
Andrew Grima
1921 - 2007
Tanzanite and Diamond Ring
circa 1987, signed GRIMA, stamped 750; no hallmark as it was made and purchased in Switzerland
ring in 18k gold with even striations on outer surface, set with a cabochon point-cut deep purple tanzanite and accented on one edge of setting with a band of seven diamonds set in white gold that gradually increase in size from one edge to the other; with an issue of Vogue, November 1965
1⅛ by 1¼ by 1⅜ in.; 2.86 by 3.18 by 3.5 cm.
size: 6¾ (US)
Acquired directly from the artist's store in London by the present owner
Cynthia Amnéus, ed., Simply Brilliant: Artist-Jewelers of the 1960s and 1970s, Cincinnati Art Museum, Ohio, 2020, p. 161
William Grant, Andrew Grima: The Father of Modern Jewellery, ACC Art Books, New York, 2020, p. 296
While jeweler Andrew Grima was famous for his asymmetrical designs often cast from nature, he created many highly modern pieces that showcased a single large gem. This piece, with its fine incised gold reaching up to house a mixed-cut tanzanite, is both sleek and impressive — and yet with its diamond accents manages to circulate the viewer’s attention rather than staying put. It is similar to an amethyst ring dated 1978 also by Grima (See Cynthia Amnéus, ed., Simply Brilliant: Artist-Jewelers of the 1960s and 1970s, Cincinnati Art Museum, 2020, p. 161) and yet subverts that design with a careful precision of symmetry on its body that stands in stark difference to the works he created using uneven gold wires. The asymmetrical diamond accent can be seen on his other rings, including a line-engraved gold example set with green tourmaline dating to 1970 and designed by Grima for artist Barbara Hepworth (See William Grant, Andrew Grima: The Father of Modern Jewellery, ACC Art Books, New York, 2020, p. 296). There is a seriousness to it as well as the new flavor of modernity for which he was renowned.