Russian Works of Art, Fabergé & Icons
Russian Works of Art, Fabergé & Icons
Lot Closed
June 9, 01:04 PM GMT
Estimate
20,000 - 30,000 GBP
Lot Details
Description
A Fabergé platinum, gold and diamond brooch, workmaster Albert Holmström, probably designed by Alma Pihl, St Petersburg, 1908-1917
Designed to imitate an eye, the geometric diamond-set openwork centring a large old-cut diamond, with diamond border, struck to the pin with workmaster's initials, scratched inventory number 101838
length 3.8cm, 1 1/2in.
The scratched inventory number shows this brooch to be amongst the last of Fabergé's works, created in 1916 and corresponds to the Modernist design of the present brooch. In its use of delicate gridwork, set with gemstones the technique of this brooch can also be seen in the Imperial Mosaic Egg (RCIN 9022) and a related brooch, both designed by Pihl and inspired by needlework (exhibition catalogue, Fabergé and the Russian Jewellers, Wartski, London, 10-20 May 2006, no. 285, pp. 106-107, illustrated).
Boldly innovative over the course of her career, Alma Pihl’s designs evolved to be increasingly modern, even art deco in design after 1913, suggesting the present brooch could be her creation. Fabergé’s workmaster Albert Holmström employed both his sister Alina Holmström and his niece Alma as designers in his workshop. The designs of both women were centralised in Holmström ledgers, but unfortunately not specifically identified by the hand at work (U. Tillander-Godenhielm, Fabergé: his Masters and Artisans, London, 2018, pp. 147-151).
We are grateful for the assistance of Dr Ulla Tillander-Godenhielm in researching the present lot.