View full screen - View 1 of Lot 267. Impressive emerald and diamond bandeau, circa 1924 and later | 尚美 | 祖母綠配鑽石束髮帶,約1924年或之後.
267

Chaumet

Impressive emerald and diamond bandeau, circa 1924 and later | 尚美 | 祖母綠配鑽石束髮帶,約1924年或之後

VAT applies to hammer price and buyer's premium

Estimate:

100,000 - 110,000 CHF

Property of a Noble Family

Chaumet

Chaumet

Impressive emerald and diamond bandeau, circa 1924 and later | 尚美 | 祖母綠配鑽石束髮帶,約1924年或之後

Impressive emerald and diamond bandeau, circa 1924 and later | 尚美 | 祖母綠配鑽石束髮帶,約1924年或之後

Estimate:

100,000 - 110,000 CHF

Lot sold:

277,200

CHF

Property of a Noble Family

Impressive emerald and diamond bandeau

circa 1924 and later


Of geometric openwork design, set with a step-cut emerald, within a surround of millegrain-set circular-cut and rose diamonds, composed of three detachable bands and three clasps, length approximately 397mm, may be combined as a bracelet, French assay mark for platinum, maker’s mark for Chaumet.


Accompanied by an SSEF report no. 119185, stating that the emerald is of Colombian origin, with a minor amount of oil in fissures, and a certificate of authenticity by Chaumet.

Accompanied by SSEF report no. 119185, stating that the emerald measuring approximately 15.50 x 13.25 x 7.55mm, is of Colombian origin, with a minor amount of oil in fissures. Also accompanied by LFG report n° BD027781/1, dated 21st of September 2021, stating that the emerald measuring 15.6 x 13.0 x 7.6mm, is of Colombian origin, with minor oil treatment.


Maker's mark for Chaumet. French assay marks for platinum. Emerald with typical natural inclusions, light scratches to the surface and small chips on facet edges. Diamonds estimated to weigh a total of approximately 28.00 - 32.00 carats, on average I-J colour, I clarity, as gauged and graded in the mount. The two largest diamonds weighing approximately 3.00 - 3.50 carats. Scratches and dents to the metal consistent with age and wear, solder marks on the reverse and mount slightly bent near the emerald. Total gross weight 129 grams.


"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones. NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

The French firm of Chaumet has flourished for over two hundred years. The firm was founded in Paris in the 1780s when Marie-Etienne Nitot (1750-1809) opened his first shop in rue St Honoré. The business thrived and the exquisite and lavish pieces caught the eye of Napoleon, who awarded them the title of Court Jeweller. This set a precedent for coming generations of the firm who would enjoy similar royal patronage. With the backing of the Emperor, Nitot et Fils became the most famous jewellers of the day and among their major achievements were the Consular Sword, the tiara Napoleon offered to Pope Pius VII and the grand gem-set parures commissioned by Empresses Josephine and Marie-Louise.


Joseph Chaumet, a jeweller from Bordeaux, married into the family and eventually took control over the company, and in 1889, changed the name to his own. Under his direction, the firm participated in the grand international exhibitions of the time, winning several prizes, and supplying jewels to the aristocratic and royal houses of Europe. A branch was opened in London in 1905 and two years later Chaumet moved to the prestigious address of 12 place Vendôme, just opposite the Ritz Hotel. Their superb production of jewels in the garland style gained Chaumet the favour of a varied clientele that included European aristocracy, American millionaires, singers and actresses. The firm thrived in the 1920s, creating some of the most classic examples of the Art Deco style. A shop was opened in New York in 1920. In 1928 Marcel Chaumet (1886-1964) succeeded his father and brilliantly managed the firm, further enlarging its clientele and promoting the evolution of design towards the tastes of the 1930s and 1940s. Marcel's sons Jacques (b. 1926) and Pierre (b. 1928) were appointed joint managing directors in 1958 and they both remained in charge until 1987. Representing the ninth generation in a line of jewellers, they exercised tight control over each item that bore the Chaumet signature. They led the firm through the stylistic changes of three decades, encouraging the development of original designs. Today, designers are again turning to archives from the past for inspiration, particularly from the 1930s and 1940s.