View full screen - View 1 of Lot 98. Van Cleef & Arpels | Mystery-Set Ruby and Diamond Brooch  梵克雅寶 隱密式鑲嵌紅寶石配鑽石別針.
98

Van Cleef & Arpels | Mystery-Set Ruby and Diamond Brooch 梵克雅寶 隱密式鑲嵌紅寶石配鑽石別針

Estimate:

300,000 to - 500,000 USD

Exceptional Jewels from a Prominent American Collector

Van Cleef & Arpels | Mystery-Set Ruby and Diamond Brooch 梵克雅寶 隱密式鑲嵌紅寶石配鑽石別針

Van Cleef & Arpels | Mystery-Set Ruby and Diamond Brooch 梵克雅寶 隱密式鑲嵌紅寶石配鑽石別針

Estimate:

300,000 to - 500,000 USD

Bid:

240,000

USD

Live auction begins in:

Live auction begins in:

2 days, 9 hours

2 days, 9 hours

Exceptional Jewels from a Prominent American Collector

Van Cleef & Arpels | Mystery-Set Ruby and Diamond Brooch


Designed as a flower centered by round diamonds, the petals embellished with calibré-cut rubies, the detachable stem and leaves set with marquise-shaped and baguette diamonds, signed V.C.A, numbered N.Y. 44020-1; circa 1970.

In good condition, with light scuffs and scratches to the mounting commensurate with wear. Mounting stamped PLAT. The rubies are medium to medium deep slightly purplish red to red, slightly to moderately included, some with minute abrasions seen under 10x magnification but in overall very good condition. The round diamonds estimated to weigh a total of approximately 5.85 carats are approximately F-H color, VVS-VS clarity and the marquise-cut and baguette diamonds estimated to weigh a total of approximately 2.75 carats are approximately F-H color, VVS-VS clarity. Dimensions approximately 3¼ x 2 inches.


In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.Certificates of Authenticity: Various manufacturers may not issue certificates of authenticity upon request. Sotheby's is not under an obligation to furnish the purchaser with a certificate of authenticity from the manufacturer at any time. Unless the requirements for a rescission of the sale under the Terms of Guarantee are satisfied, the failure of a manufacturer to issue a certificate will not constitute grounds to rescind the sale. Gemological Certificates and Reports: References in the catalogue descriptions to certificates or reports issued by gemological laboratories are provided only for the information of bidders, and Sotheby's does not guarantee and accepts no responsibility for the accuracy, terms or information contained in such certificates or reports. Please also note that laboratories may differ in their assessment of a gemstone (including its origin and presence, type and extent of treatments) and their certificates or reports may contain different results. NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE. (edited)

Van Cleef & Arpels was granted the French patent for its “serti mystérieux” or “mystery-setting” in 1933, a technique that was originally limited to flat surfaces. The process takes no less than 300 hours to complete, requiring months of work by a crew of artisanal craftsmen to produce a single jewel.  Rubies and sapphires, favored for this type of design due to their hardness, are selected for uniformity of color, originally in square or rectangular cuts.  However, later on a new technique was patented and perfected by Van Cleef & Arpels which allowed jewelers to use other cuts such as triangles, trapeziums or polygons in order to fill in spaces and create curved areas with graceful transitions. This breakthrough allowed for a variety of dimensional forms beyond just a flat surface. The secret to the “mystery setting” technique is the precision with which the stones are cut so they be slotted into a gold wire framework which is only visible from the underside.  The result can be observed in the ruby and diamond flower brooch offered here, where the monochromatic mosaic of pure color is fused together without any noticeable metal. Van Cleef & Arpels mystery-set jewels are prized by buyers and sellers the world over for their iconic design and the quality and perfection of their craftsmanship.