View full screen - View 1 of Lot 129. Gold, Turquoise and Ruby Bracelet.

Gold, Turquoise and Ruby Bracelet

Auction Closed

October 20, 04:07 PM GMT

Estimate

12,000 - 15,000 USD

Lot Details

Description

With openwork terminals designed as stylized plumage, set with round rubies and turquoise cabochons, supported by a detachable gas pipe chain.

  • Internal circumference 6 inches
  • 18 karat gold
  • Gross weight approximately 53 dwts
  • Circa 1945

Rubel Frères, well-known for their collaboration with Van Cleef & Arpels in the creation of their iconic ballerina brooches, brought a grace and effervescence to their work that defined their signature style. Before relocating to New York in 1939, the Hungarian-born brothers, John and Robert, based their workshop on the Rue Vivienne where they built a reputation as superlative craftsmen. They dissolved their partnership with Van Cleef & Arpels in 1943 and began selling their own designs under the name John Rubel & Co. Amidst the glamour of post­-war Manhattan, the firm further refined its style by adding a lightness and movement to the bold forms that dominated the 1940s. Solid planes of gold were replaced with flourishes of open wirework, yielding jewels infused with femininity and whimsy. Richly colored gemstones were also favored, most notably turquoise cabochons and rubies, a pairing which became their hallmark. The bracelet offered here incorporates many of these elements and is further distinguished by its ingenuous design. The gem-set terminals may be individually detached, allowing the bracelet to receive additional motifs in a variety of styles and materials for the ultimate in versatility.